Himalayas treks
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SHIVLING (6543M)The Matterhorn of India
Himalayas treks - Welcome to Martin Moran Mountaineering. We are one of Britain's most experienced guiding businesses, established in 1985, offering mountaineering courses, holidays and expeditions in the north-west of Scotland, Norway, the Swiss Alps and the Himalayas. The company is directed by Martin Moran, a British and international IFMGA Mountain Guide. Professional organisation, personal service, qualified instructional staffing and an adventurous spirit are the key ingredients of our success. Browse our pages and follow a ladder of ambition from beginner to expert level then join us to discover the sheer thrill and lasting pleasure of mountaineering.
Shivling is one of the world's most beautiful and famous peaks,
the towering sentinel to the Gangotri Glacier and the holy source of the
River Ganges, which is visited by thousands of Hindu pilgrims every year.
The standard route up the mountain's West Ridge demands skills in steep
snow and ice climbing to Alpine AD/D and Scottish grade III/IV standard.
The route also has one serious section of 200 metres where it climbs through
the central serac wall. First ascended in 1977 Shivling now sees several
successful ascents each year. Tapovan base camp with grassy flats, its
naked resident Holy Man and scattering of expedition tents is one of the
most prized and convivial sites in the Himalayas. Though one of the busiest
spots in the Garhwal Himalaya the Gangotri Glacier retains a penetrating
mystique and icy beauty. Applicants should have Scottish winter and relevant
Alpine climbing experience. With a sound technical and Alpine backgorund
this could be attempted as your first Himalayan trip. Acclimatisation
demands are however considerable as both trek and climb are steep. The
trip is offered on a 25 day schedule with maximum 3:1 guiding ratio.
Outline Itinerary:
Fly to Delhi and journey by rail/bus to Gangotri (3010m) - temple, religious
and tourist centre
Gentle acclimatisation and 28km trek up the Bhagirathi valley to Tapovan
Base Camp via Chirbas, Bhujbasa and Gaumukh (the Ganges source at the
snout of the Gangotri Glacier)
Acclimatisation and preparation of camps on lower West Ridge to 5750m
Establishment of route up serac wall (fixed rope) and summit attempts
from a top camp at c.5750m
Out to Gangotri, return to Delhi and UK
Group size: maximum of 9 with 3 Guides
Full dossier on request
On June 3rd the North
Ridge team climbed back over the Ronti Saddle in mist and gentle snowfall.
An overhanging cornice gave Martin some exciting aid moves on horizontally-driven
snow stakes. A delightfully simple walk down the snowfields past Hom Kund
regained base at 11.30am.
The return trek to Ghat was made in two long stages from June 5th to 6th
and the team returned home on June 9th. Despite continual struggles against
the weather the expedition had been made particularly enjoyable by having
a small close-knit team, an excellent cook, HAP and Liaison Officer and
total solitude for three weeks in a beautiful corner