AUTUMN
2009: HIMALAYAN EXPEDITION
HIMACHAL
PIONEER
17th
Sept - 12th Oct
Peak
6184m from the summit of Gangsthang
- our proposed route will ascend the right-hand glacier
and climb the snow face to the summit rock tor; the grade looks to
be Alpine AD/Scottish grade II/III
Following
our successful ascent of Gangsthang
(6162m) in 2007 we are returning
in 2009 to explore and attempt more virgin peaks in the Lahaul
district of Himachal Pradesh, India. Our main objective
will be the unclimbed summit of Peak
6184m which lies above
the Jankar Nala north-west of Darcha, and in addition we will
be exploring a range of superb 5500-6000m peaks between the
Jankar and Billing Nalas which offer technical alpine routes
of all styles at a relatively modest altitude. Our 2008 Himachal
team attempted Pk 6184m but was thwarted by an unusually
heavy snowfall (a metre fell at base camp over a 48 hour blizzard,
the worst for at least 10 years!), and reached 5850m on the
SSE Ridge. With expectancy of better conditions the 2009 team
can be confident of completing the climb and achieving the first
ascent of one of the few remaining virgin Himalayan 6000m
peaks.
The trip will appeal to experienced mountaineers who have
experience of a variety of terrain, including some rock climbing,
winter mountaineering (to grade II/III standard) and mixed alpine
terrain (typically PD/AD standard). Previous altitude experience
to 4000m and above is also beneficial, but this is an ideal
itinerary for a first trip to the Himalayas for adventurous
climbers. All members of this trip should be interested
in genuine mountain exploration and adventure in a remote area.
All climbing will be lightweight alpine-style with support of
high-altitude porters. All members must have robust fitness.
The expedition will also provide exciting travel through magnificent
mountain terrain, plus stays in the famous hill resorts of Shimla
and Manali, journeys by train, bus and jeep and visits
to Hindu temples - so it is recommended as an ideal trip
for a first visit to India.
The
unclimbed Billing-Jankar Nala range in Lahaul - another
target for our 2009 Himachal expedition; peak
heights range from 5770m to 6020m with potential for snow/ice/mixed
climbs grades from alpine AD to TD in standard
Outline
itinerary
Thurs Sept 17th : Flights UK to Delhi (overnight flight
dep H/row 17.35 arr Delhi 06.15 Fri 18th)
Fri Sept 18th : Final packing and administrative clearance,
sightseeing tour of Delhi; overnight sleeper train to Chandigarh
and Shimla
Sat Sept 19th : At leisure in the historic hill-station
of Shimla; walks and sightseeing to 2400m
Sun Sept 20th : Jeep journey to Manali; 240km 8-10hr
Mon Sept 21st: Jeep journey over Rohtang La pass (3950m)
to Keylong and Darcha (3360m) at start of walk-in; hire porters
and mules for trek
Tues-Thurs Sept 22nd - 24th: Approach to base camp: Day
1: :acclimatisation trek Darcha to roadhead at Palamao (3700m),
12-14 km; meet mules for trek to base camp; Day 2: trek Palamao
to Doll (4100m) 12-14km; Day 3: trek Doll to base camp under
major side glaciers on W side of Jankar Nala (4300m), 8km.
Fri Sept 25th - Wed Oct 7th: Climbing phase - 13 days
for recconoitre and climbs in Billing-Jankar range ; attempt
on Peak 6184m (see photos above); groups may spilit according
to preferences
Thurs Oct 8th-Fri Oct 9th: Optional crossing of pass
Billing-Jankar La and trek down Billing valley to Keylong; alternatively,
walk out back to Palamao then jeep transport back to Manali
Sat Oct 10th: Jeep from Manali to Chandigarh and train
to Delhi; stay overnight at hotel
Sun Oct 11th: Sightseeing and shopping in Delhi
Sun/Mon Oct 11th-12th: Overnight flights back to UK
Maximum
number of members: 8 with 2 British guides
Price: £3,250 incl Flights
Heathrow-Delhi, Peak Fees, Travel in India, British Guides,
Indian staff, half-board 3-4* Hotels in India, use of Equipment/Tents.
Not included: Personal Insurance, Visas, Tips, Drinks, Lunches
on the road. Deduct £400 for land-only price
Deposit: £400 booking deposit required. Balance payable
on or before June 17th
Discounts:
5% discount on bookings received before 30th April 2009,
2½% to past-Scottish/Alpine clients; 5%
to past Himalayan-clients, 5% to groups of 3 or more
and 20% to a qualified doctor willing to undertake the
role of medical officer on the team.
Maps:
Ladakh-Zanskar: South 1:150000 published by Editions Olizane
(2005): available on mail order from www.olizane.ch
: excellent topographic map; GPS compatible. Leomann Indian
Himalaya Maps: sheets 4 and 5: basic 1:200000 line maps
with lots of information on trekking on reverse
Full
dossier available on request
