AUTUMN 2010: HIMALAYAN EXPEDITION

SATOPANTH (7075m)

1st - 29th SEPTEMBER

Satopanth is a majestic chisel-headed 7000er rising imperiously above a cluster of surrounding summits between the Gangotri and Chaturangi Glaciers in the India's Garhwal Himalaya. First climbed in 1947 by Andre Roch's Swiss expedition, the peak has been repeated on numerous occasions by its north flank and ridge. The climb is mainly on snow and ice, with a narrow section of corniced ridge and a long final climb up the north flank headwall, rating AD on the Alpine scale of difficulty.

As well as providing a fine climb Satopanth lies in the centre of the magnificent mountain ranges of the Gangotri Glacier, which includes the peaks of Shivling, Meru and Bhagirathi. Our itinerary offers several days of trekking, exploring and acclimatisation amongst these fabulous mountains. Gangotri is worshipped by Hindus as the furthest source of the Ganges and each year thousands of pilgrims visit its temple and the river source at Gaumukh.

Experience Required: We are looking for strong determined climbers with proven altitude experience. Previous trips to the Greater Ranges at heights above 5000m, preferably 6000m, are recommended, although experienced Alpine climbers may also apply. All members must be safe competent climbers to Scottish III and Alpine AD standard.

TRIP GRADE: C/D

Satopanth from the Chaturangi Glacier (photo (c) Colin Harding)

The ascent route gains the left hand snow ridge at the obvious notch. The narrow corniced section leads to a camp-site below the 900m headwall

Outline Itinerary:

Wed-Thurs Sept 1-2: Fly to Delhi; overnight resthouse accommodation; meet Liaison Officer and obtain clearance of expedition at Indian Mountaineering Foundation

Fri Sept 3: Early morning train to Haridwar (gateway of the Gods) on the River Ganges (5hr) ; meet trip bus and continue to Uttarkashi (provincial town and admin centre)(7hr)

Sat Sept 4: Final clearances from local officials; then continue bus journey up Bhagirathi valley to Harsil (2550m) (5hr) (resthouse or camp)

Sun Sept 5: Acclimatisation walk then jeep drive to Gangotri village and temple (3030m)(2hr)

Mon Sept 6: Training walk up Kedar Ganga valley, return to Gangotri for second night at 3000m

Tues-Thurs Sept 7-9: Trek to base camp at Vasuki Tal (4800m) on Chaturangi Glacier: overnight stops at Bhujbasa (3792m) and Nandanban (4400m)

Fri-Mon Sept 10-13: Acclimatisation walk up Gangotri Glacier to view the Bhagirathi, Shivling and Kedarnath peaks; acclimatisation climb to Kalindi Khal (5947m) (a famous high pass at the head of the Chaturangi Glacier)

Tues Sept 14-Fri Sept 24: Attempt on Satopanth with intermediate camps at c.5300m, 5800m, 6200m. Alpine-style tactics will be used with exception of one section of fixed rope on the crux snow/ice ridge

Sat - Sun Sept 25-26: Outward trek to Gangotri and return road journey to Uttarkashi

Mon-Tues Sept 27-28: Bus journey to Haridwar, evening train to Delhi; final formalities at IMF

Wed Sept 29: Overnight flights back to UK.

Maximum of 6 places with 2 British Guides/Leaders

PRICE: £4,400 includes Return flights from UK to Delhi; all travel in India; Hotel and resthouse accommodation, breakfasts and evening meals in Delhi, Uttarkashi and Gangotri; Guiding from qualified British expedition guides at max 3:1 ratio; services of Cook and High Altitude Porters; all fees for Permits; Mules and porters for transport of kit to base camp; all Food on trek and use of Tents if required; plus "climate change carbon offset" levy to Carbon Footprint Ltd. Personal Insurance. Drinks, restaurant lunches, tips are not included.

Deposit required: £500

Discounts: 5% to group of 3 or more, 2.5% on bookings received before Dec 15th 2009, 5% to past Himalayan clients, 2.5% to past Alpine/Scottish course clients; 20% to a qualified doctor willing to undertake the duties of medical officer on the trip.

Equipment: Two Axes, Crampons, Helmet and lightweight Harness are required for the climb. Plastic mountain boots plus overgaiters will be needed on this trip, plus lightweight trekking shoes. Clothing is required to withstand a big temperature range from -15degC at night to +25degC by day. Take a 60-70 litre Rucksack to carry plus large tough travel holdall for mules/portering.

Trip Leader: Martin Moran will lead the trip assisted by other qualified Mountain Guides (BMG/IFMGA) or Mountain Instructors (MIC) with high altitude and expedition experience. Two or three high altitude porters will assist the team n ferrying loads to Camp 2 on Satopanth.

Preparation and Pre-trip Weekend Meet: All members need to be "hill fit" with regular mountain walking days of 15-20km distance and 800-1200m ascent carrying loads of up to 16kg in the months prior to departure. Short trips to the Alps wil be highly useful if time/finances allow.

We will run a Pre-expedition training weekend in Scotland on 20th - 21st March when the team members can get together socially and enjoy two valuable days of winter climbing at grade III and IV standard (price £320 for 2 days with full-board accommodation).

Acclimatisation and Altitude Profile: The schedule allows 3 nights acclimatisation at 2500-3000m at Harsil and Gangotri; followed by a steady increase in altitude over 3 days to 4800m at Vasuki Tal base camp. Four days of acclimatisation with an ascent of the 5947m Kalindi Khal will then prepare the team to achieve an efficient ascent of Satopanth. Our tactics will be to get the team fit and strong at altitudes up to 6000m before even setting foot on the mountain.