Trip Grade: D; Maximum number of members: 8 with 2 British guides
Price: £5,450: Deposit: £750 booking deposit required. Balance payments: Balance due on 15th June 2017
Discounts: 2½% to past-Scottish/Alpine clients; 5% to past Himalayan-clients, 5% to groups of 3 or more; deduct £550 for land-only price (Delhi to Delhi)
|Price includes Flights Heathrow-Delhi, Permit fees and Peak Royalties, Travel in India, British Guides, Indian and Sherpa staff, half-board Hotels and Hostels in India, use of Equipment/Tents. 15% discount on equipment purchases from Cotswold Outdoor. Not included: Personal Insurance, Visas, Tips, Drinks, Lunches on the road.
On the Ronti Saddle at 5300m between Trisul and Nanda Ghunti
PRIOR EXPERIENCE AND TRAINING: All members should have prior mountaineering experience up to 6000m altitude plus climbing on snow and ice in Scotland and/or the Alps with proven competence on Scottish winter grade II/III and Alpine AD snow routes. A proven ability to acclimatise well is important when going into remote country. You need to be generally fit, in robust health and well-trained.
An ‘expedition temperament’ is equally vital – a combination of patience and determination to see through the bad times - the painful process of acclimatization, spells of stormy weather and discomfort - and a refusal to be overawed and deterred from the mountain by its scale and grandeur.
It is desirable that all members have recent experience of climbing at Alpine altitudes (ie 3500-4800m). Skills and fitness can be brought up to scratch by Scottish winter climbing and short trips to the Alps. We can offer courses or private guiding to any members to develop and test the skills needed for the expedition.
General mountain fitness must be maintained at a good level by regular outings in the British hills and personal training (running, cycling, gym work etc).
PRE-EXPEDITION WEEKEND MEET: Jan 21st-22nd 2017 based in Strathcarron. Price for 2 days including briefing, slide presentations, 2 days guiding and training on the peaks of Torridon, local travel and 2 nights full-board, local station pick-up/drop off is £360.
The weekend meet is an invaluable opportunity for members and guides to get to know each other and form bonds of friendship.
To confirm attendance please pay a deposit of £90 on-line via our secure web-booking form . Please also inform us of your travel plans and schedule on Friday night.
WEATHER AND SNOW CONDITIONS Trisul lies on the southern edge of the main Himalayan divide and its weather is determined by the juxtaposition of hot humid air over the Indian plains and cold dry air masses over Central Asia. In early September the monsoon influence retreats and a month of drier and more settled weather usually follows before the onset of winter snowfall and severe cold. This is the golden month in which to make ascents on the high peaks of the Indian Himalaya. Night temperatures can as low as -20?C at 6000m; by day surface temperatures soar due to intense solar radiation. The weather pattern may be one of fine mornings and afternoon snowfall. More severe weather disturbances are rare, but big peaks like Trisul do attract storms when the air masses are unstable.
The snow conditions on the peak depend on the influence of the monsoon. A full monsoon will deposit thick layers of moist snow above 5000m, which consolidates in the fine weather of late September to give excellent climbing conditions. If the monsoon fails then ice will be prdominant on steeper slopes – good for making secure belays but arduous to climb. A weak monsoon generally increases the risk that the weather in September will be unsettled with snowfall; so our hope wil be for a normal summer with full monsoon followed by a month of high pressure and dry conditions.
PERMITS AND VISAS: We will be a registered climbing expedition with full recognition of the Indian Mountaineering Foundation and a Liaison Officer will accompany our team. Climbing permits for the trip will be obtained from central Government (Indian Mountaineering Foundation) and Uttarakhand State Government. Individual members must get Tourist Visas. Each member must complete a Bio-data form and we submit these to the IMF for permit approval.
All applications to join this trip must be received no later than 4 months before departure to allow these procedures to be completed.
We would stress that this region of India is far removed from the areas of conflict in Kashmir and is wholly Hindu in religion with some Buddhist influence in the higher valleys. Ethnically and politically it is stable with an effective security control.
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT REQUIRED High-altitude boots rated to 7000m + with over-gaiters, a 4/5-season sleeping bag plus Pertex/Goretex cover and expedition standard Mat/Thermarest, expedition standard gloves/mittens and a warm down jacket and insulated trousers, plus a large capacity rucksack (65-80 litres) are required. Otherwise the kit normally used for sub-6000m peaks or Alpine/Scottish winter climbing will suffice. We will send a full kit list.
PRICE HIKES: In event of peak/permit fees or local taxes being significantly increased before our departure we may have to ask members to pay a surcharge on the price. If this exceeds 10% of trip price members may cancel with full refund.
PREPARATIONS AND TRAVEL Insurance cover: all members must have full personal cover which includes medical/rescue/repatriation expenses, third-party liability, personal baggage and protection in event of cancellation /curtailment. The cover must be valid for expedition climbing in excess of 7000m. www.thebmc.co.uk offered full expedition cover in 2016 for a premium of c.£400.
What inoculations will I need? We will send a detailed medical brief after you book. All inoculations can be obtained in two visits to your doctor in the 3 months before departure.
How much money need I take to India? You should take at least $400 in cash to cover Drinks, Tips, Lunches and Personal Sundries plus a credit card for use in Delhi.
What are our flight schedules? We usually reserve either daytime outward flight with BA from Heathrow to Delhi or overnight from Glasgow with Emirates via Dubai. However, our actual choice of flights depends on your preference and prices and schedules prevailing at the tie of reservation. We can arrange connections from regional airports with BA on payment of the relevant supplement. Return flight: daytine on 15th or overnigth on 15th/16th with BA flight, or daytime/overnight with Emirates
What is the flight baggage allowance? BA: 23kg per person plus 10kg hand baggage; Emirates: 30kg plus hand baggage.
HISTORY OF CLIMBING ON TRISUL AND ROUTE DESCRIPTION:
Location: 30° 18’ 48” N, 79° 46’ 48” E
Peak name: The trident of Lord Shiva
1st Ascent: A. and H. Brocherel, K.Burathoki, Dr T.Longstaff, 12th June 1907
Trisul’s historic first ascent was made by the north-eastern flanks which rise gently from the Trisul Glacier and present no technical difficulties. Longstaff’s party pioneered the route to the Trisul Nala through the lower portion of the Rishi Gorge, then made the ascent in rapid lightweight style, climbing from a camp at 5300m to the summit in a 10 hour push. Courmayeur guide Alexis Brocherel led the whole way, a remarkable tour de force.
The route was repeated by an all-Indian team led by Gurdial Singh in 1951, this itself a landmark in Indian climbing history. Many other ascents were made, some on ski, until closure of the Nanda Devi Sanctuary in 1982 ended access to the north-east flank.
The standard route to the top now is the West Ridge, which was pioneered by a Yugoslavian team in 1976, and is approached from the Nandakini valley. This is a climb of higher technical calibre with snow-ice slopes to 55-60° angle and a height gain of 2800m from Hom Kund base camp.
Trisul’s enormous West Face was climbed was climbed by another Yugoslav party in 1987 to create a route of world-class dimension and difficulty.
Route Summary: West Flank and Ridge: IV, alpine grade D (Difficile), 2800m: T.Sazonov and Yugoslavian team, 1976: The route gains the upper shelf of the Ronti Glacier then climbs the low relief ridge at its upper end to gain the summit slopes. From Hom Kund a large couloir to the left of a prominent icefall cuts through the cliff bands. The couloir is snow-filled in spring and gives access to the upper Ronti Glacier at c.5250m (Camp I). The glacier shelf is climbed on its outer edge to minimise exposure to avalanche or sérac falls from the Trisul face. At c 6000m the shelf merges into the ice slopes and of the West Ridge (Camps II and III). The ridge is as much a face as a rib and has slopes of up to 60°, which are often icy. Previous parties have used fixed ropes to protect this section before the angle eases at 6600m. A small flat spot at 6450m offers a site for Camp IV. Easier snowfields lead to the upper South Ridge and the summit. Allow four days from base camp at 4350m in the Nandakini valley for an acclimatised party.
Route diagram of Trisul West Ridge (Google 3D imagery)
Nanda Ghunti South Face from base camp
LIFE DURING THE EXPEDITION
Accommodation? Hostels or hotels with twin en-suite rooms and room service in Delhi and Srinagar; otherwise simple provincial resthouses
What do I need to carry on the trek? Members need carry no more than personal effects and clothing (12kg max.) on trek to base camp. Above base camp members must carry their personal kit and make one load-ferry to Camp 2 as part of acclimatisation - typical load of 15-16kg. Above base camp we will have support from Sherpas and high altitude porters, who will carry to the top camp at 6500m.
What are the provisions for medical treatment on the trip? We carry a comprehensive medical kit on all our trips, and usually have a medical doctor on the team. All Guides have mountain first aid certificates, and long experience of expedition ailments.
What communications equipment will we take? We will carry lightweight Motorola radios for use between camps and a Delmore In-Reach satellite beacon and texting device for weather forecasts and emergency use. Please note that use of satellite phones is currently banned by the Indian authorities.
What is the trek/base camp food like? Our base camp cook will provide a wholesome diet, eg:-Breakfast: Porage, Muesli, Omelettes, Paranthas, Pancakes
Lunches: Vegetable or Egg Curry, Dumplings, Puris, Chips, Pakora, Salad
Dinners: Rice/Dahl/Soya Stew, Pizza, Spaghetti Bolognese, Chow Mein, Apples/Custard, Dried Fruit, Fruit Cake
Snacks and condiments: Dried fruit, nuts, oatcakes, cheese, jam, honey, peanut butter, salami, biscuits, chocolate, fruit-cake
What sort of mountain food will we eat? Members should expect to cook their own meals at high camps on the mountain. Hill food will include Soup, powdered Fruit Drinks, sachets Chocolate/Ovaltine, Tea, Coffee, Porage, Oatcakes, Custard, sweet Biscuits, Cheese, Jam, Honey, Fruit Cake, Flapjack bars, Chocolate, Boiled Sweets, Mint Cake, Freeze-dried Meals, Tuna, Noodles, Cous-Cous, Mashed Potatoes
Who will be the Indian staff on the trip? We will have a Field Executive from our agent, Himalayan Run & Trek Pvt. Ltd to assist and supervise the expedition, plus a cook, kitchen helper and up to 3 Sherpas/high altitude porters.
Do I need to take my own tent? It is suggested that members take their own tent for personal use at base camp. Above base camp we will provide 2 and 3 person mountain tents.
Please call us if you’d like to know anything else before booking; a kit list for the trip will be sent separately
We hope you will join us and look forward to hearing from you