Our ice climbing courses offer a chance to learn the special skills of ice climbing from beginner level and the opportunity for strong and experienced ice climbers to push their grades and enjoy the thrill of climbing long vertical icefalls.

In 2010 we have a new base in the town of Aurland on the edge of the Sognefjord in Western Norway. The deep valleys of Naeroydalen, Aurlandsdalen, Laerdal and Utladalen are all within easy reach and together offer what is probably the world's finest and most spectacular pure ice climbing:-

- a huge volume of ice lines of all standards and at altitudes from sea level up to 1000m

- routes from single pitch up to 800m in length, many of which are still unclimbed.

- simple access with many routes less than an half an hour's walk from the nearest road.

- fantastic snow and ice gully climbing and exploration on cliffs up to 1400 metres in altitude

- varied venues with majestic scenery; we can climb in a different valley each day

- guaranteed wilderness and solitude; you may meet a few other dedicated ice climbers but you won't have to queue for routes and the ice will be in pristine condition

- warm comfortable cabins in the town centre of Aurland, which has pub, cafes and a supermarket

- easy access - under 3 hours driving time from Bergen airport

"In March 2009 we took a drive round the Sognefjord on our day off and saw so much ice that we came back babbling with excitement - a hidden valley gorge, completely untouched, with as many icefalls as Rjukan, stupendous 600-800m ice lines and 1000m snow gully lines, pencil-thin ice spouts in hidden clefts and innumerable roadside icefalls to test and develop the skills of beginners. The scale and potential of it all was simply too much to take in." Martin Moran

Norway ice courses: an ocean of ice on the 200m Seltunfossen (WI4+/5) in Laerdal

500 metre icefalls in Naeroydalen : 25 minutes drive from our base in Aurland

Photo Galleries: Norway Ice and Mountain : Norway Ice 2010

COURSE LEVELS:

Introductory Ice: course ratio 3:1: Training and instruction in pure ice climbing with multi-pitch routes of Scottish III standard (WI3) and single pitch to Scottish IV/V (WI 4) for ice beginners, plus snow and ice gully climbing. There will be opportunity to try leading on pitches of grade II/III standard under the expert supervision of your guide. We recommend that all applicants for this course should have previous rock climbing experience (indoors or outdoors) and have done some general Scottish winter or Summer Alpine mountaineering using ice axe and crampons. PRICE: £960

Dates: February 13-20, 20-27

Intermediate/Technical Ice: course ratio 2:1: Aimed at regular climbers with previous experience of winter climbing who want to enjoy steeper ice coupled with genuine mountain adventure. Each course will offer a mixture of tuition and training on shorter accessible icefalls up to Scottish grade VI (WI 5+) and adventurous longer routes with real mountain challenge. There'll be opportunties to lead under guide's supervision. Applicants should have previous winter climbing experience to Scottish grade III/IV (WI 3 or above), plus plenty of rock climbing. This ensures that you will have the strength and stamina in arms and legs to enjoy more sustained and steeper ice routes. PRICE: £1,080

Dates: February 6-13, 13-20, 20-27

Advanced Ice: course ratio 2:1: For clients who have already developed the skills of waterfall ice climbing to WI4+ standard and want to expand their skills on to long, difficult and more serious routes with opportunity to pioneer some new routes and WI5+/6 in technical standard. The course gives the chance to lead on WI4/4+ routes and to try mixed climbs. [1:1 Guiding option: In good conditions and weather we can offer to provide 1:1 guiding on one of the 5 days on a major route of 400 to 600 metres in length and up to WI6 in difficulty at extra cost of £115 per client]. Applicants should have previous ice climbing experience to WI4+ and/or Scottish grade V, including multi-pitch routes plus plenty of rock climbing at HVS level or above. PRICE: £1,140

Dates: February 6-13, 13-20, 20-27

We can advise on your suitability for the alternative courses: just give us a call

Early booking discount: £40 off any course booked before Oct 31st 2010

Course timings: Courses meet on Sunday evening and depart Sunday morning. There will be 5 climbing days between Monday and Saturday with one day spare to allow for bad weather or to give you a rest or a chance to explore the local area.

Getting to Aurland: Access to Aurland is remarkably simple - a 2 and a half hour drive from Bergen airport using a system of road tunnels that provides a guaranteed route in all but the worst weather. Bergen airport is served by direct flights from Aberdeen and London Stansted/Gatwick (prices from £130 return), and has connections via Amsterdam or Copenhagen from most other UK regional airports. We offer car airport connections to clients arriving in close schedule with our Guides' arrivals and departures. Otherwise there is a regular fast bus service from Bergen to Aurland.

Accommodation: Course prices include 7 nights self-catering accommodation in comfortable heated cabins at Aurland Vangsgaaarden www.vangsgaarden.no with breakfast and lunch food provided. Clients share shopping and cooking for evening meals. 5 days guiding and all local travel is provided in the price. We offer airport connections in our hire cars whenever possible (price £27.50 single)

Your Guides and Instructors: Our regular Norway ice staff are expert climbers, inspirational instructors and have the special ability to provide a sense of security on the most adventurous routes. They are qualified or aspirant British Mountain Guides (IFMGA/BMG) or highly exerienced Mountain Instructors (MIC). Recent staff have included some of the most experienced and able alpine climbers in the country - Tim Blakemore, Jon Bracey, Kenton Cool, Matt Helliker, Dave Hollinger and Martin Welch. They all considered this area of Norway to be an incredible arena for ice climbing adventure.

Weather and Ice Conditions: By mid-February good thick ice will have built up on the major drainage lines above 300m altitude and the days have opened out to offer 8 hours of climbing. A deep freeze-up can take temperatures down to -20degC with good ice forming down to sea level. Warmer westerly winds can make the ice softer and easier to climb with sea level temperatures a few degrees above zero and snow falling above 2-300m altitude. Aurland is sufficiently inland that heavy prolonged rain and snowfall is uncommon. Major thaws do not usually occur until early March and even then there will be good ice to climb at higher levels.

Training and Course preparation: Any keen mountain-goer with a good head for heights can adapt to ice climbing and have a great time; BUT ice climbing does require specific strength in wrists, forearms and shoulders plus good stamina in the calf muscles. Whether you book on Introductory or Advanced Ice, you should embark on a regular programme of exercise to develop this specific fitness if you want to get the most out of the course. We will send a suggested training programme after you have booked.

Equipment Hire: We can rent technical ice climbing tools and crampons at £20 per week per item plus any postage costs. Stocks are limited so hire gear should be booked immediately on booking.

A full course information pack and kit list are sent out on booking with travel details and recommended flights to Bergen

Intro Ice: Climbing the Stigafossen (120m, WI3+) : climber: Kirsty Perry

Sunset over the Sognefjord in late February

Director: Martin Moran
IFMGA and BMG Guide