MOUNTAIN NEWS AND OFFERS

Secure online booking is now available - click here

ALPINE SUMMER COURSES 2008 Places are still available on: Intro Alpine Climbing: July 12-18 Intermediate Alpine Climbing: July 26-Aug 1 Eiger-Matterhorn: Aug 2-8 Swiss Big Three: July 19-Aug 1 Grandes Courses: July 12-25, Aug 9-22 For full details:- ALPINE COURSES	HIMALAYAN EXPEDITIONS 2008 Himachal Pioneer:Sept 11th - Oct 7th 2008: join our team for first ascents of Peak 6184m and other beautiful virgin peaks in Lahaul district of Himachal Pradesh. An ideal first Himalayan expedition for experienced UK or Alpine mountaineers. 2 places still available .....HIMACHAL PIONEER SPITI MOUNTAIN VOYAGE Summer 2009...
NEWS REPORT - ARCTIC PARADISE - NORTHERN NORWAY: June 7-21 We enjoyed two weeks of fantastic climbing in the land of the midnight sun, visiting the Lyngen Alps, Stetind and Lofoten Islands..... READ MORE	RECENT REPORTS: NORWEGIAN ICE 2008: Another productive ice climbing fortnight was enjoyed in the valley of Laerdal by our 13 clients with guides Martin Moran, Dave Hollinger, Martin Welch and Kenton Cool. Despite a big thaw in February many higher icefalls held up well and colder conditions in our second week offered some tremendous possibilities.... READ MORE 2007 HIMACHAL EXPEDITION: WEST FACE OF GANGSTHANG: Our team of 9 climbers met with cold and variable weather but discovered a magnificent new valley for mountaineering, the Thirot Nala in Lahaul district of Himachal Pradesh.....READ MORE

SPRING 2009 HIMALAYAN EXPEDITION TO NANDA DEVI EAST (7434m) - 8 places available to climb on one of the world's greatest peaks - a unique opportunity for experienced climbers READ MORE NANDA DEVI EAST... May 14th - June 21st. All inclusive price £5,350; up to 10% discount for past clients ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ PHOTO OF THE WEEK - Martin Moran on Store Lenangstinden (1625m), Lyngen Alps , Norway; 10th June 2008 (photo: Kevin Morris)

SCOTTISH ACTIVITIES REPORT: 23rd June: Our Spring courses enjoyed the best weather for many seasons. Five full traverses of the Cuillin Ridge were achieved. Congratulations to Peter, Anne, John, Stephen, Gavin and Natalie. Several of our Skye Mountaineers climbed all 11 Cuillin Munros on the Main Ridge during their week with us. The weather held for the first week in June when Nick Carter with Jim Slater and Mike Hale successfully ascended all three major sea stacks - Stoer, Am Buachaille and Hoy Conditions updates are given throughout the winter season with news of notable ascents in the NW Highlands Don't hesitate to send reports of your own expeditions and climbs in the NW Highlands to me on: martin.moran@btinternet.com

Summit ridge of Stetind (1392m) - Norway's national mountain; climbers Richard Hampshire and Bill Shaw; 15th June 2008 Links for further information:- www.mwis.org.uk : Mountain Weather Forecasts for the Scottish Highlands www.sais.gov.uk : Scottish Avalanche Information Service

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

NEWS REPORT - ARCTIC PARADISE - NORTHERN NORWAY: June 7-21

Our 8 clients and 3 guides enjoyed two weeks of fantastic climbing in the land of the midnight sun, visiting the Lyngen Alps, Stetind and Lofoten Islands. Seven peaks were ascended. In north Lyngen we discovered extensive glaciers and superb alpine ridges, still massively caked in rime ice. The area receives little attention for mountaineering despite its increasing fame as one of Europe's finest off-piste ski destinations. We saw no-one in our 6 days there. As well as climbing brilliant peaks like Lakselvtinden (1615m) we enjoyed high mountain camps, bivouacs and a marvellous 600m sitting glissade off the Tomarsskardet col. Moving south in week two we had an idyllic 2 nights camped under the mighty obelisk of Stetind, which is one of Europe's finest mountains outside of the Alps. Our team of 5 climbed the normal route with its notorious hand traverse crux! Finally, it was over to Lofoten, a "mecca" for rock climbers and home to Norway's roughest mountains. Richard Hampshire, Bill Shaw, Vic Williams, Jonathan Preston and myself made an ascent of the East Ridge of Rulten (1065m), first climbed by Collie and Slingsby in a tour de force in 1903. After an approach by jet boat this mighty ridge engaged us for 19 hours - thank goodness for 24 hour daylight! With 500m of the hardest rock scrambling imaginable followed by 300m of steep snow climbing this historic climb gave us a total spanking. Even the mosquitos and midges awoke from slumber to give our bedraggled team a vicous welcome back at camp. Our pride was restored in following days. Local guides told us that our ascent was probably the first since 2001. Furthermore, Rulten was considered to be Norway's hardest mountain! The fortnight finished with an entertaining ascent of Svolvaer's Goat - guide Jonathan Preston managing to span his long legs between the summit horns without needing to make the infamous leap!

Store Jaegervasstinden (1543m), Lyngen Alps - ascended by 6 members on June 9th 2008; climbers: Frank Harvey and Kevin Morris Details of 2009 trips will be coming soon on our Arctic Norway page

ALPINE CLUB GUIDEBOOK by MARTIN MORAN

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

NEWS REPORTS:

NORWEGIAN ICE 2008 Another productive ice climbing fortnight was enjoyed in the valley of Laerdal by our 13 clients with guides Martin Moran, Dave Hollinger, Martin Welch and Kenton Cool. Despite a big thaw in February many higher icefalls held up well and colder conditions in our second week offered some tremendous possibilities. The best routes were the superb 6 pitch gulch of the Haugsgjel (Scottish V, 6 or WI4+) - climbed by three teams, the majestic 400m Kjorlifossen (Scottish VI, 6 or WI5) (ascended by John MacLeod and Chris Franks) and the monumental Thorfossen (500m, Scottish VII, 6 or WI5+), which must be one of the world's best and biggest ice climbs soaring 1100m from road to summit in a grandiose hanging canyon and which reduced Russ Chapman to the admission that it was "something of an ordeal"! Our Introductory Ice team found two possibly virgin climbs - The Stig - a lovely 120m WI3 climb up the side of the Stigagjeli and "No Country for Old Man" - a steep 180m waterslide high in Rasdalen (Scottish IV, 5 or WI4), named appropriately by 61 year old Allan Clapperton - one of 5 ascensionists. In the fjordland of Norway you can never definitively claim first asents but every discovery feels like a pioneering adventure. All our clients also enjoyed some leading on the 80m icefalls of Hoggeberg which offers over a dozen lines from WI2 to 5+, and is the perfect beginners' coaching venue. With massive icefalls spotted above nearby Naeroydalen and much unfinished business in Laerdal we'll be back in 2009 - basing our courses in comfortable chalets with easy access from Bergen airport (3 hrs by car). Watch out for details of next year's courses and book early for a great week's climbing. Norwegian Ice courses Check out our photo gallery for the best of our Norway climbs: Norway Ice 2005 Dave Hollinger tackles the 80 metre headwall of the grade VI Thorfossen, Laerdal, Norwegian Ice March 2008

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

HIMACHAL PIONEER EXPEDITION: SEPT 13th - OCT 9th 2007

Gangsthang (6162m) from Thirot Shivling. Our team finished up the SW Ridge which is the right-hand ridge.       Our team of 9 climbers met with cold and variable weather but discovered a magnificent new valley for mountaineering, the Thirot Nala in Lahaul district of Himachal Pradesh.

Initial reconnoitres of unclimbed Nainghar Choti (6094m) were hampered by heavy snowfall and poor visibility. However, the splendid pyramidal peak of Gangsthang (6162m) offered a more accessible objective and at 4.30pm on Sept 30th 6 members stood on the tiny summit, having made a new route up the West Face, finishing up the normal SW Ridge. Peter Ashworth, Gustavo Fierro-Carrion, John Leedale, Arun Mahajan, Martin Moran and Luder Singh were the lucky summiteers, who then witnessed the giant kaleidoscope of a Himalayan sunset during the descent. The climb rates alpine D- in grade with pitches of Scottish grade III and IV in the 600m couloir used to access the final ridge. The subsidiary rock peak of Thirot Shivling (5324m) was reached on Sept 28th by Allan Clapperton, David Geddes, Frank Johnstone, Arun, Martin and Luder at PD- standard.

The team also enjoyed a superb journey into the area, taking the night sleeper from Delhi, the amazing narrow gauge railway to Shimla hill station, beautiful roads through the verdant valleys of Kullu and Manali, and a breath-taking drive over ther 13,000 foot Rohtang Pass into the spectacular Chandra-Bhaga valley.

Photo Galleries: Enjoy our Himachal Pioneer 2007 and Ladakh-Kang Yatze 2006 photo selections and check our web pages for full details of 2008 expeditions; book early for extra discounts:-

ALPINE COURSES : SUMMER 2007

Our 2007 Alpine courses enjoyed some excellent conditions thanks to a cooler and snowy season, and achieved some great climbs despite mixed weather.

On June 28th 12 members of the St James's Place Foundation climbing team reached the summit of Mont Blanc under our guidance - a magnificent achievement in very cold and windy conditions. One of the UK 's leading personal asset management companies, St James's Place Ltd makes a major fundraising effort each year for a variety of childrens' charities both in the UK and abroad. The efforts on Mont Blanc have already raised £225,000 for the Foundation.

The 8 members of our Swiss Big Three course achieved a remarkable clean sweep of the Dent Blanche, Eiger and Matterhorn during their two week course. Congratulations to all of you.

Other notable performances include:

- the ascent of Mont Blanc by 67 year old Peter Moreton together with Mark Barter and guide Dave Kenyon; all our Mont Blanc course clients this summer were successful

- Eiger traverse by Mittellegi and South Ridges achieved by 6 students just before a 3 day blizzard

- the traverse of La Meije in the Ecrins massif - contender for the best traverse in the Alps - achieved at D+ standard by Peter and Angela Lunn with Anthony Franklin

- the famous traverse of the Aiguille du Grepon (3482m) above Chamonix by Des Winterbone, Allan Isherwood with Martin Moran; this turned into a 20 hour epic thanks partly to the extreme difficulties of the infamous Mummery Crack - now classed as a 5b, but first climbed in 1881 by Mummery's trusty guide Venetz and celelebrated with a bottle of champagne on the summit. We can report that the pitch has not got any easier with the passage of time!

- the Nollen Spur on the Monch and North Face of the Pigne d'Arolla feature in the snow and ice routes achieved this season.

Add in the ascents of the Dent du Geant, Tour Ronde, Bietschhorn, Weissmies North Ridge, Lagginhorn South Ridge, Fiescherhorn, Finsteraarhorn, Mont Blanc de Cheilon, Aig de la Tsa, Dufourpsitze, Strahlhorn and Monte Viso - and you'll realise just how far and wide our clients have climbed this summer!

ALPS SUMMER 2006 PHOTO HIGHLIGHTS

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

SUMMER 2007

Summit ridge of Austanbotntind (2234m) - Hurrungane 2007 Climbing the Dent Blanche in high winds (Grandes Courses 2007) - climber Chris Hines	The magnificent obelisk of Skagastolstind - Norway's 3rd highest peak climbed by our team of seven in June 2007 Claire Young and Lisa Rowles after summiting Mont Blanc for the St James's Place Foundation - June 2007

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

CREDIT CARD PAYMENTS:

Booking is now even easier with our Streamline Credit Card payment facility and secure booking form. We can handle payment by Visa, Mastercard, Delta and Maestro/Switch. Full details on our Prices and Booking Form page.