HIMALAYAS EXPEDITIONS
click here to enter the site
Nanda Gunthi
Climbing Shivling is one of the popular Himalayas expeditions, the towering sentinel to the Gangotri Glacier and the holy source of the River Ganges, which is visited by thousands of Hindu pilgrims every year. The standard route up the mountain's West Ridge demands skills in steep snow and ice climbing to Alpine AD/D and Scottish grade III/IV standard. The route also has one serious section of 200 metres where it climbs through the central serac wall. First ascended in 1977 Shivling now sees several successful ascents each year. Tapovan base camp with grassy flats, its naked resident Holy Man and scattering of expedition tents is one of the most prized and convivial sites. Though one of the busiest spots in the Garhwal the Gangotri Glacier retains a penetrating mystique and icy beauty. Applicants should have Scottish winter and relevant Alpine climbing experience. With a sound technical and Alpine backgorund this could be attempted as your first trip. Acclimatisation demands are however considerable as both trek and climb are steep. The trip is offered on a 25 day schedule with maximum 3:1 guiding ratio.
Shivling - click on photo for large image
Outline Itinerary:
Fly to Delhi and journey by rail/bus to Gangotri (3010m) - temple, religious and tourist centre
Gentle acclimatisation and 28km trek up the Bhagirathi valley to Tapovan Base Camp via Chirbas, Bhujbasa and Gaumukh (the Ganges source at the snout of the Gangotri Glacier)
Acclimatisation and preparation of camps on lower West Ridge to 5750m
Establishment of route up serac wall (fixed rope) and summit attempts from a top camp at c.5750m
Trek out to Gangotri, return to Delhi and UK
Group size: maximum of 9 with 3 Guides
On June 3rd the North Ridge team climbed back over the Ronti Saddle in mist and gentle snowfall. An overhanging cornice gave Martin some exciting aid moves on horizontally-driven snow stakes. A delightfully simple walk down the snowfields past Hom Kund regained base at 11.30am.
The return trek to Ghat was made in two long stages from June 5th to 6th and the team returned home on June 9th. Despite continual struggles against the weather the expedition had been made particularly enjoyable by having a small close-knit team, an excellent cook, HAP and Liaison Officer and total solitude for three weeks in a beautiful corner.