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SPRING 2013: HIMALAYAN EXPEDITION
HIMACHAL PIONEER: Peaks of the Darcha Valley
Pioneering climbs on virgin peaks of Lahaul region
6th - 30th June 2013

The Darcha Mayar valley: Peaks on skyline from L to R: Pk 6150m, Pk 6100m, Pk 6080m and on far right Ramjak (6290m) taken during our Himachal Pioneer trip Sept 2009. the approach to base camp will follow the sweeping Mayar valley on the right side of the photo.
Our main objective will be to explore the Darcha Mayar Nala, a valley which has no record of previous climbing visits, with the beautiful snow peak of Pk. 6080m as our primary mountain ambition, with option to attempt more challenging Pk 6030m, Pk 6100m and Pk 6120m as time and energies allow. These look to offer alpine routes of all styles and standards at a relatively modest altitude, and are probably unclimbed. The trip will appeal to mountaineers who have experience of a variety of terrain, including some rock climbing, winter mountaineering (to grade II standard or above) and mixed alpine terrain (PD standard or higher). Previous altitude experience to 4000m and above is highly beneficial, but this is an ideal itinerary for a first trip to the Himalayas for adventurous climbers. All members of this trip should be interested in genuine mountain exploration and adventure in a remote area. All climbing will be lightweight alpine-style with support of high-altitude porters. All members must have robust fitness. Applicants with greater technical experience will be able to attempt the harder of the peaks. This area offers objectives for all ambitions and our itineraries are always flexible to give all members a chance to achieve a personal goal. The expedition will provide exciting overland travel through magnificent mountain terrain, plus stays in the famous hill resort of Manali, journeys by train, bus and jeep - and is recommended as highly suitable trip for a first visit to the Himalaya.
If your passions are fired by the prospect of exploring untracked virgin mountain country; if you want a lightweight alpine-style expedition free of the constraints of fixed ropes and siege tactics; if you are willing to train hard and work as part of a team - then this trip will suit you.
Appropriate "technical" experience can be achieved and consolidated during summer 2012 and winter 2012/13 in preparation for the trip, so we will consider bookings from less-experienced clients who have this intention. Our Alpine or Scottish Winter courses provide relevant experience.
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View from Miyar Nala towards Pk 6030m (on right)
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Glacier crossing on our 2011 Himachal Pioneer trip (photo: Steve Birch)
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Outline itinerary
Thurs June 6th : Flights UK to Delhi - daytime or overnight Thurs/Fri
Fri June 7th : Packing and sightseeing in Delhi; complete admin formalities with Indian Mountaineering Foundation; overnight sleeper train to Chandigarh
Sat June 8th : Jeep journey to Manali (2000m) 240km 8-10hr; stay at the relaxing Dragon Guest House in Old Manali
Sun June 9th : Training walk to 3000-4000m in Manaslu valley; return to Manali for second night
Mon June 10th: Purchasing of trek food and equipment; jeep journey over Rohtang La pass (3950m) and down Chandra Bhaga valley to provincial town of Darcha (3300m) - 8hr; camp.
Tues June 11th: Trek up Jankar Nala to roadhead at Palamao (roadhead, 3700m); 14km, camp.
Wed June 12th: Trek up Jankar Nala to Kuddu (4100m); 12km.
Thurs June 13th: Trek from Kuddu up Darcha Mayar valley to base camp at c.4500m.
Fri June 14th: Rest, acclimatisation and organisation of camp
Sat - Sun June 15th - 16th: reconnoitre of peaks and objectives; load ferries to an advance campsite
Mon June 17th - Wed 26th: Attempts on peaks (Pk 6080m, Pk 6150m, Pk 6100m etc)
Thurs June 27th: Pack up base camp and trek out to roadhead at Palamao; jeep/minibus journey back to Manali
Fri-Sat June 28th: Drive Manali to Chandigarh and evening train to Delhi; final day relaxing and shopping in Delhi
Sat/Sun June 29th - 30th: Overnight flights back to UK/Europe (arr Hrow 07.00hrs)
Trip Grade:B/C
Note: We plan to hold a pre-expedition training meet in Scotland in Winter 2013 when all members can meet together for training and a full briefed in the skills and physical preparation required for this expedition
Maximum number of members: 10 with 2 British guides ;
Price: £3,900 incl Flights Heathrow-Delhi, Travel in India, British Guides, Indian staff, half-board Hotels and Hostels in India, use of Equipment/Tents. Not included: Personal Insurance, Visas, Tips, Drinks, Lunches on the road. Deduct £500 for land-only price
Deposit: £400 booking deposit required. Balance payable on or before March 6th 2013
Discounts: 2½% to past-Scottish/Alpine clients; 5% to past Himalayan-clients, 5% to groups of 3 or more. £150 early booking discount for reservations made before Sept 30th 2012
Maps: Ladakh-Zanskar: South 1:150000 published by Editions Olizane (2005): available on mail order from www.olizane.ch : excellent topographic map; GPS compatible. Leomann Indian Himalaya Maps: sheets 4 and 5: basic 1:200000 line maps with lots of information on trekking on reverse
Link to: 2011 HIMACHAL PIONEER PHOTO SELECTION
Supplementary Information:
TRAVEL :
Flight schedules? BA run two flights daily from Heathrow to Delhi – daytime depart 10.10 and overnight depart 17.25. Members can choose whichever flight suits best, the daytime flight being recommended to minimize jet lag. On return we recommend the overnight flight dep Delhi 02.10 arr Heathrow 06.50 on Sun morning.
What is the flight baggage allowance? 23kg per person plus 10kg hand baggage. An extra bag can be booked on the flight at cost of £35-40 each way
PREPARATIONS:
Insurance: All team members must have Rescue, Medical and Repatriation Insurance cover. In addition, cover for Cancellation/Curtailment, Personal Baggage, 3rd party Liability and Personal Accident is strongly recommended.
UK-resident members can take out comprehensive expedition insurance with the BMC www.thebmc.co.uk (2012 premium for up to 31 days £300 plus BMC membership).
Inoculations: Tetanus, TB (BCG inoculation), Typhoid, Hepatitis A, Diptheria – essential. Rabies, Japanese Encephalitis, Hepatitis B – optional. Anti-malarials – not recommended. We will detail these fully after you book. Can all be obtained in 3 mths before departure.
How much money need I take to India? You should take $300 in cash to cover Drinks, Tips, Lunches and Personal Sundries plus a credit card for use in Delhi.
Training: All members must endeavour to be in the best possible state of physical training before the trip. Plenty of mountain walking with daily distances of 16-20km is recommended together with local training running, cycling, gym training or whatever you prefer. Those who have had a lay-off from the mountains must make special efforts to get back to good fitness. There is no substitute for getting out on the hills and mountains in UK and Europe in preceding months. There is only limited time to acclimatise and get fit on the expedition. At high altitude any lack in physical preparation is soon exposed!
Mental preparation: Himalayan mountaineering requires a high level of enthusiasm and motivation. The enervating effects of altitude coupled with harsh living conditions during bad weather must be anticipated. All members must be mentally ready for these challenges to get the most out of the trip. A strong team spirit and mutual support system is vital to success. All members should, as fitness allows, be willing to help in tasks like trail-breaking/cooking/setting up camps/packing supplies.
Permits and Visa
We are applying as an official mountaineering party with the Indian Mountaineering Foundation. We are planning that trip so that only a Tourist Visa is required for entry to India and this can be obtained by post after on-line application to: http://in.vfsglobal.co.uk . If there is any additional Mountaineering Visa requirement we will inform you.
Special Equipment Boots must be warm enough to go to 6000m but also comfortable enough walking. Scarpa Phantom 6000 fabric boots or Scarpa Omega plastic boots are recommended. Light trekking shoes or trainers can be worn for all trekking and lower level exploring. We recommend use of overgaiters such as Berghaus Yetis to provide extra warmth and protection. A 4-season sleeping bag, a lightweight down or synthetic Duvet jacket, and a large capacity rucksack (75 litres min) may be the only additional items you need. Otherwise the clothing suitable for Scottish winter or summer Alpine walking/mountaineering will be perfectly adequate. We will send a full recommended kit list on request.
Weather and Climbing Conditions The Spring climate of Lahaul is generally dry but there could be occasional storms with fresh snow above 4000m; there will be a large range of temperatures from +20degC by day to –15degC at night. There will still be substantial fields of winter snow on slopes and in gullies above 4000m. A cover of stable snow above 5000m will be ideal. The monsoon weather does not usually arrive until mid-July. Dry winds may be a problem and could mean that faces and glaciers will be icy. The lower glaciers and moraines may be bouldery.
LIFE DURING THE EXPEDITION
Accommodation: YWCA Blue Triangle hostel with twin en-suite rooms in Delhi – a comfortable quiet lodge very close to the city centre with en-suite twin rooms; hotels and resthouses in Manali, Udaipur and Urgos; on trek all nights will be in tents
Load-carrying: During the trek up the Miyar valley to base camp members should carry personal effects and clothing, enough to get fit and acclimatized (12-15kg.). On the climbs above base camp members must carry personal kit, and loads of 18kg may be carried to establish higher camps. We will have 2 or 3 high-altitude porters, who will carry communal equipment, food and fuel to higher camps.
Provisions for medical treatment: We carry a field medical kit and offer a 20% discount to a doctor or paramedic who wishes to join the team. All Guides have mountain first aid certificates, and long experience of expedition ailments.
Trek Food? The food on the trip will be largely vegetarian. Our cook will provide a wholesome diet , eg:-
Breakfast: Porage, Muesli, Omelettes, Pancakes, Paranthas, Chapattis
Dinners: Vegetable or Egg Curry, Puris, Pakora, Rice/Dahl/Soya Meat Stew, Corned Beef Hash, Spaghetti Bolognese, Chow Mein, Apples/Custard, Jelly and Fruit Cake
Lunch Food: Dried fruit, nuts, oatcakes/biscuits/paranthas, cheese, meat pate, salamis, jam, honey, peanut butter and pickle, chocolate, protein bars, boiled sweets
Drinks: Soup, Fruit Drinks, Drinking Chocolate/Ovaltine, Tea, Coffee, Herbal Tea.
Indian staff: We will have a Cook/Field Executive from our agent, Himalayan Run & Trek Pvt. Ltd and two or three high altitude porters. All the staff are regulars on our trips and have achieved a very high reputation for service, support and team spirit.
Do I need to take my own tent? We will provide tents for the mountain camps and can provide tents for base camp on basis of two or three persons sharing. However, we recommend that you take your own lightweight personal tent for use at base camp and on trek, giving you privacy and space for rest and recovery when not climbing.
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