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AUTUMN 2015: HIMALAYAN EXPEDITION

HIMACHAL PIONEER: "PEAKS OF THE GREAT DIVIDE"

10th SEPT - 6th OCT 2015

* A feast of exploration on the unclimbed peaks at the head of the Miyar Glacier

* Main objective Peak 6294m - a pivotal peak on the Greater Himalayan Divide

* Snow, ice and mixed climbs of all standards

* A beautiful approach trek to a high-level base camp

Our pioneering trip for 2015 will explore the cluster of fabulous 6000m peaks at the head of the Miyar Glacier on the Great Himalayan Divide in Himachal state. Our main objective will be Peak 6294m - the highest and most impressive peak in the massif. This peak was identified as being unclimbed in 2009, but during our Himachal trek in 2011 we spotted an accessible route on its SE flank which looks to offer a feasible snow and ice climb of Alpine AD/Scottish grade II/III standard, a wonderful opportunity for clients with a basic grounding of snow and ice mountaineering experience to pioneer a significant first ascent.

As well as Peak 6294m there are several other enticing peaks on both sides of the Kang La - the pass at the head of the Miyar Glacier. These offer options to make a second exploratory climb on the same trip, at standards from Alpine AD upwards in difficulty. Alpine-style tactics will be used.

The travel and approach trek to reach the Miyar Glacier is a delight. The adventure begins in Manali, one of the most thriving hill-resorts in India. We cross the 3970m Rohtang Pass and drive down the deep Chandra Bhaga valley to Udaipur. Here the trek begins - for three days wandering through peaceful villages and broad grazing meadows to the glacier snout at 3900m. After a rest day here, the team will make a rough two day trek to establish a base camp at 5000m on the upper Miyar glacier, within immediate reach of Pk 6294m and surrounding summits. There will be 10 days available for climbing before the return journey commences.

We strongly recommend this expedition if you have winter or alpine mountaineering experience, are possessed of the pioneering spirit, and fancy spending three weeks in one of the most remote and beautiful wilderness areas of all the Himalaya.

Don't hesitate to get in touch and give us some details on your past experience - we can advise whether this trip is right for you and devise an appropriate programme of training and preparation.

2.5% early booking discount on bookings made before 31st December 2014; past-client discounts up to 5%

. Photo gallery from 2012 Himachal Pioneer trip

Peak 6294m - our main objective - dominates the Lahaul-Kishtwar skyline (photo taken during our 2011 Himachal Pioneer trek and climb)

Outline itinerary:
Thurs 10th Sept : Flights UK to Delhi - daytime or overnight Thurs/Fri; stay in hotel in Delhi
Fri 11th Sept: Packing and sightseeing in Delhi; complete admin formalities with Indian Mountaineering Foundation; overnight sleeper train to Chandigarh
Sat 12th Sept: Minbus journey to Manali; 240km 8-10hr; stay at the Dragon Guest House in Old Manali
Sun 13th Sept : Purchasing of trek food and equipment; jeep journey over Rohtang La pass (3950m) and down Chandra Bhaga valley to Udaipur (2640m) - 8hr
Mon 14th Sept : Trek up Miyar Nala valley following road to Urgos (3300m), 23km; overnight home stay in village
Tues 15th Sept: Meet porter and mule teams; trek to Miyar Nala valley roadhead at Sukto, continuing through Khanjar village to Tharang campground at 3800m; 12km.
Wed 16th Sept 16th: Trek up Miyar valley to Zardong (3900m); 12km.
Thurs 17th Sept: Trek to snout of Miyar Glacier at 4000m, 8km; camp at Dali Got; rest and acclimatisation
Fri 18th Sept: Trek up Miyar Glacier to intermediate camp at 4400m; 10km

Sat 19th Sept: Final trek stage to make base camp at 5000m on upper Miyar Glacier

Sun 20th Sept- Wed 30th Sept: Climbing attempts on Peak 6294m and surrounding peaks

Thurs-Sat 1st-3rd Oct: Trek out to roadhead at Khanjar; meet minibuses and drive back to Manali

Sun-Mon 4th - 5th Oct: Jeep drive Manali to Chandigarh and evening train to Delhi; final day relaxing and shopping in Delhi

Tues 6th Oct: Overnight flights back to UK/Europe (arr Hrow 07.00hrs)

Alternative Trek and Return Trip options: Members who prefer to shorten the climbing period to 6-7 days can leave base camp early and return by one of two alternative trekking routes: i) cross the Kang La (5450m), trek down to the Padum valley then follow the classic Shingo La trek to roadhead at Darcha - jeep taxi to Manali - 120km; 8 days; ii) Cross the Taramsalu Pass (5350m) and trek down Darcha Valley - 60km; 5 days. We will provide a guide and all support services you if you want to take a trekking option. .

Trip Leader and Guides: The trip will be led by British Mountain Guide Dave Kenyon, assisted by a second BMG guide or mountain instructor (MIC) if the team size exceeds 6. Sherpas and high altitude porters will assist the team.

Booking Deadline: bookings must be received before end of April 2015 in order for us to obtain permits in India

Left: Map of the upper Miyar Glacier Above: The upper 800 metres of Peak 6294 seen from the Kang la - this will be our line of attempt, gaining and using the left-hand ridge

Supplementary Information:

TRAVEL: Flight schedules For departures from London we use British Airways who run two flights daily direct from Heathrow to Delhi – daytime depart 10.20 and overnight depart 17.25. Members can choose whichever flight suits best, the daytime flight being recommended to minimize jet lag. On return we will book the overnight flight dep Delhi 02.10 arr Heathrow 06.40 on Mon morning or a daytime flight dep Delhi 08.15. Members travelling from UK regions can take BA regional connections on payment of any supplement in cost. For Scottish-based members we may use the Emirates flight from Glasgow via Dubai, on basis of convenience, extra bag allowance and cheaper fares
Flight baggage allowance:  On BA flights: 23kg per person plus 10kg hand baggage.

PREPARATIONS: Pre-trip training weekend: We plan to hold a pre-expedition training meet in Scotland in March 2015 when all members can meet together for training and a full briefed in the skills and physical preparation required for this expedition.

Training: All members must endeavour to be in the best possible state of physical training before the trip. Plenty of mountain walking with a pack weight of 12-16kg and daily distances of 16-20km is recommended together with local training running, cycling, gym training or whatever you prefer. Those who have had a lay-off from the mountains must make special efforts to get back to good fitness. Short trips to the Alps will be highly useful if time/finances allow. There is no substitute for getting out on the hills and mountains in UK and Europe in preceding months. There is only limited time to acclimatise and get fit on the expedition. At high altitude any lack in physical preparation is soon exposed!

Insurance: All team members must have Rescue, Medical and Repatriation Insurance cover. In addition, cover for Cancellation/Curtailment, Personal Baggage, 3rd party Liability and Personal Accident is strongly recommended.
UK-resident members can take out comprehensive expedition insurance with the BMC www.thebmc.co.uk (2013 premium for up to 31 days £300 plus BMC membership). Rescue-only insurance is available from www.globalrescue.com
Inoculations: Tetanus, TB (BCG inoculation), Typhoid, Hepatitis A, Diptheria – essential. Rabies, Japanese Encephalitis, Hepatitis B – optional.  Anti-malarials – not recommended. We will detail these fully after you book. Can all be obtained in 3 mths before departure.
Money in India:  You should take $300 in cash to cover Drinks, Tips, Lunches and Personal Sundries plus a credit card for use in Delhi. 

PERMITS AND VISA: We are applying as an official mountaineering party with the Indian Mountaineering Foundation. A Visa is required for entry to India and this can be obtained by post after on-line application to:  http://in.vfsglobal.co.uk . Full advice on the application process will be given after you book.

EQUIPMENT: Boots must be warm enough to sustain 12 days of living above the snowline. Scarpa Phantom 6000 fabric boots or La Sportiva Spantik plastic boots are recommended plus an insulated overgaiter to provide extra warmth and protection. Light trekking shoes or trainers can be worn for the trek as far as the glacier. Two Axes, Crampons, Helmet and lightweight Harness are required for the climb. A 4 season sleeping bag, and a down jacket, are essential for warmth. Clothing must withstand a big temperature range from -20degC at night to +25degC by day. Take a 60-80 litre Rucksack to carry plus large tough travel holdall for mules/portering.

MAPS: Ladakh-Zanskar: South 1:150000 published by Editions Olizane (2005): available on mail order from www.olizane.ch : excellent topographic map; GPS compatible. Leomann Indian Himalaya Maps: sheets 4 and 5: basic 1:200000 line maps with lots of information on trekking on reverse

Maps can be mail ordered from www.stanfords.co.uk. www.cordee.co.uk

ACCLIMATISATION AND ALTITUDE PROFILE: The schedule allows 2 nights' acclimatisation between 2000-3000m at Manali and Leh; followed by one night at 3300m at Urgos village at the roadhead. The trek camp levels are 3800-3900-4000-4400m. The final stage to base camp climbs to 5000m. Our tactics will be to get the team fit and strong by taking the trek slowly, so that after 2 nights' rest at 5000m everyone will be strong to start the climbs

WEATHER AND CLIMBING CONDITIONS: The Lahaul-Kishtwar massif usually offers a period of 6-7 weeks of settled conditions after the monsoon in Sept-Oct. Heavy rains are unusual in this period, althougth there may be some early-season snowfalls above 4000m. Night temperatures on the mountain can be very cold - down to minus 20degC at 6000m

LIFE DURING THE EXPEDITION: Accommodation:  Golden Palms Hotel with twin en-suite rooms in Delhi; luxury guesthouse in Manali; simple resthouse in Udaipur; on trek all nights will be in tents
Load-carrying:  During the trek to base camp members should carry personal effects and clothing, enough to get fit and acclimatized (12-14kg.). On the climbs above base camp members must carry personal kit and some communal kit. Loads of up to 16kg may be required to establish a high camps, but our high-altitude porters, will carry the bulk of communal equipment, food and fuel. Above 5500m all climbing will be done in lightweight style with minimum bivouac equipment.
Provisions for medical treatment: We carry a full field medical kit and advertise for a doctor or paramedic to join the team. All Guides have mountain first aid certificates, and long experience of expedition ailments.
Food: The food on the trip will be largely vegetarian. Our cook will provide a wholesome diet:-
Breakfast:  Porage, Muesli, Omelettes, Pancakes, Paranthas, Chapattis
Dinners: Vegetable or Egg Curry, Puris, Pakora, Rice/Dahl/Soya Stew, Corned Beef Hash, Spaghetti Bolognese, Chow Mein, Apples/Custard, Jelly and Fruit Cake
Lunch Food: Dried fruit, nuts, oatcakes/biscuits/paranthas, cheese, meat pate, salamis, jam, honey, peanut butter, chocolate, protein bars, boiled sweets
Drinks: Soup, Fruit Drinks, Drinking Chocolate/Ovaltine, Tea, Coffee, Herbal Tea.
Indian staff:  We will have a Cook/Field Executive from our agent, Himalayan Run & Trek Pvt. Ltd and two or three Sherpas/high altitude porters. All the staff are regulars on our trips and have achieved a very high reputation for service, support and team spirit.
Tents: We will provide tents for the mountain camps and can provide tents for base camp on basis of two or three persons sharing. However, we recommend that you take your own lightweight personal tent for use at base camp and on trek, giving you privacy and space for rest and recovery when not climbing.

Please get in touch if you have any questions or would like more information about the trip.

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Moran Mountain Ltd - Park Cottage - Achintee - Strathcarron - Ross-shire - IV54 8YX