SPRING 2017: HIMALAYAN CLIMB

KAMET (7756m) - India's Lonely Giant

19th May - 22nd June 2017

Our Kamet expedition is the highest and most challenging of our Himalayan trips. Kamet is the 3rd highest mountain in India. We are looking to assemble a team of between 6 and 8 committed mountaineers to attempt this peak. The overall team leader will be Martin Moran.
The giant obelisk of Kamet stands in lordly isolation on the Tibetan border. When first climbed in 1931 by a British party led by Frank Smythe, Kamet was the highest peak in the world to be climbed. Base camp at Vasudhara Tal is a 3 day trek from the roadhead. A 10km ascent of the East Kamet Glacier leads to an advance camp at c.5500m from which the summit attempts are mounted by the original SE Flank route. Mixed ground (with fixed ropes) and steep glacier leads to a final camp on the Meade’s Col at 7138m, from which the North-East Ridge is climbed on snow and ice to the top – overall grade Alpine AD. There will be Sherpa and high-altitude porter support but above 6500m Alpine-style tactics will be used. This historic climb offers a magnificent opportunity to experience the challenge of high altitude climbing in the remotest Himalaya without the commercialism and crowds that attend the easier 8000 metre peaks. All members must be fit, self-reliant, experienced in Alpine mountaineering and have previous ascents to 6000m.
We attempted Kamet in 2005 and reached 7650m – before being forced to retreat due to deep snow, cold and lack of daylight, a very cruel rebuff when so close to the top. In 2017 we are going two weeks later in Spring to benefit from warmer conditions and more settled weather.

Outline Itinerary:
Fri-Sat May 19th-20th: Fly to Delhi; complete administrative formalities and final packing
Sun May 21st: Train and bus journey via Haridwar to Srinigar in Alaknanda valley
Mon May 22nd: Bus journey to Joshimath (1900m) (7hrs), the main provincial centre in the upper Alaknanda valley; issue of Inner Line permits by District Magistrate
Tues May 23rd: Bus journey to roadhead at Gamsali (3350m) in Dhauli Ganga valley (5hrs)
Wed May 24th: Trek to Niti (3480m) (8km, 4hr) – acclimatisation
Thurs May 25th: Trek to Shepuk Kharak (3859m) (10km, 6hrs); camp
Fri May 26th: Cross Dhauli Ganga and trek to Sem Kharak (4400m) (9km, 5hrs)
Sat May 27th: Trek to Base Camp at Vasudhara lake (4795m) (6km, 3hrs)
May 28th-4th June: In this phase the expedition will spilt into two groups:1) Training and Acclimatisation climb: descend to Sem Kharak and climb the Sem Kharak Glacier in two days to a high camp at c.5700m : attempt on Bidhan Parbat (6520m) – an easy snow peak; inspection of route to Kamet from summit plateau; return to Base Camp
2) Establishment and stocking of Camps I and II (5600m) on East Kamet Glacier (with full Sherpa/high-altitude porter support).
5th-9th June: All members now take personal kit up East Kamet Glacier to Camp II; leading teams push route up to Camp III on snow plateau under Abi Gamin (6300m); loads and kit ferried to Camp III with high-altitude porter support; lead teams make route to Meade’s Col at 7138m between Kamet and Abi Gamin
10th-17th June: Summit attempts and return to base camp
18th – 19th June: Trek out to Gamsali and return to Joshimath
20th-21st June: Return journey to Delhi
22nd June: Return flights

East Kamet Glacier on route to Camp 1	Traversing the fixed ropes at 6400m

FURTHER READING:
Reading:
Kamet Conquered by Frank Smythe (1932) reprinted in The Six Alpine/Himalayan Climbing Books published by Baton Wicks (2000)
Detailed account of the first ascent – an inspiring mountain classic
Maps and General Trekking Guides:
‘Garhwal and Kumaon Himalaya - A trekking guide’ - S.P. Sharma (Cicerone Press)
Leomann Trekking Map Sheet 8: Kumaon-Garhwal (Pindari Glacier, Badrinath & Nanda Devi) 1:200000 (£7.00)
Garhwal Himalaya East 1:150000 topographic map by E.Huber : best map to the region (extract enclosed with dossier) redrawn from 1930’s Survey of India sheets.
American Military Map reprint: 1:250000 sheet NH44-6 Nanda Devi(£7.50)
Try Cordee (www.cordee.co.uk); 0116 2543579 to order any of the above.

THE ROUTE AND STANDARD OF CLIMBING:  From base camp at Vasudhara Tal the peak is approached by a 13km trek up the East Kamet Glacier. This will be made easier by an extensive snow cover. An intermediate camp (Camp 1) will be made at c.5100m, and Camp 2 will be established under Kamet’s SE Face close by Pt.5633m. The glacial scenery on the trek will be magnificent but there is an objective risk in event of a big ice avalanche from Mana’s North Face on some sections of the route. Camp 2 will be a major staging post, fully stocked with two week’s food and equipment, and team members can expect to spend several nights there.
From camp 2 a snow couloir branches off from the glacier and ascends north to a glacial shelf under Abi Gamin’s South Wall. Camp 3 will be placed here at c.6300m.
The technical crux of the climb lies in getting up the steepest section of the shelf where a steep section of mixed rock and snow may be encountered, with sections of Scottish grade II/III or Alpine AD. We will place fixed anchors and ropes on this section.
Above this barrier an intermediate camp (Camp 4) will be placed (at c.6500m) before the route is pushed out up easier glacier slopes to Meade’s Col (7138m). This is the platform for the summit attempts. The summit attempt can either be taken direct from the col (the original 1931 route) or by a long zig-zag out right to the Chinese Ridge. With good snow the climbing is no more than Scottish grade I at 50° max angle. If areas of ice are exposed the grade is II/III and the final climb may require ice screw belays.

Kamet summit from Camp 4 at 6550m	The mixed face above Camp 3 – technical crux
On the summit climb at 7500m looking into Tibet	The summit climb to Kamet – two alternative routes

ALTERNATIVE OBJECTIVES: There are alternative objectives should Kamet prove too tough or the weather and conditions are unsuitable. Abi Gamin (7355m) can be conveniently climbed from Meade’s Col should Kamet’s final slopes be too icy or windswept for an attempt. There are two peaks on the north side of the East Kamet Glacier (Pts 6581m and 5938m) which could be consolations if Kamet cannot be climbed.
Most appealing, however, is an exploration of the range to the south of the East Kamet Glacier which we have provisionally scheduled as the training climb for the team. The terrain is technically easy. Bidhan Parbat (6520m) and even Deoban (6855m) could be attempted.

PRIOR EXPERIENCE:  All members should have prior mountaineering experience up to 6000m altitude plus climbing on snow and ice in Scotland and/or the Alps with proven competence on Scottish winter grade II/III and Alpine AD snow routes.
A proven ability to acclimatise well is important when going into remote country. You need to be generally fit, in robust health and well-trained.
An ‘expedition temperament’ is equally vital – a combination of patience and determination to see through the bad times - the painful process of acclimatization, spells of stormy weather and discomfort - and a refusal to be overawed and deterred from the mountain by its scale and grandeur.

PRIOR TRAINING:   It is desirable that all members have recent experience of climbing at Alpine altitudes (ie 3500-4800m). Skills and fitness can be brought up to scratch by Scottish winter climbing and short trips to the Alps. We can offer courses or private guiding to any members to develop and test the skills needed for the expedition.
General mountain fitness must be maintained at a good level by regular outings in the British hills and personal training (running, cycling, gym work etc).

PRE-EXPEDITION WEEKEND MEET: Jan 21st-22nd 2017 based in Strathcarron. Price for 2 days including briefing, slide presentations, 2 days guiding and training on the peaks of Torridon, local travel and 2 nights full-board, local station pick-up/drop off is £360.
The weekend meet is an invaluable opportunity for members and guides to get to know each other and form bonds of friendship.
To confirm attendance please pay a deposit of £90 on-line via our secure web-booking form . Please also inform us of your travel plans and schedule on Friday night.
  
WEATHER CONDITIONS AND TEMPERATURES  Kamet lies to the north of the main Himalayan divide and its weather is as much affected by air masses over Central Asia as over the Indian plains. In the May – June period the temperatures may start off cold with extensive snow cover above 4000m. A rapid warming after late-May is expected, with the onset of a settled spell, ideal for summit attempts. Much of the unsettled weather generated by intense heat on the plains of India fails to reach the latitude of Kamet. However, stormy spells cannot be ruled out. Night temperatures can as low as -15 degC at 5000m; by day surface temperatures soar due to intense solar radiation. The weather pattern may be one of fine mornings and afternoon snowfall. The monsoon does not usually arrive until the end-June or July at this latitude.

PERMITS AND VISAS: We will be a registered climbing expedition with full recognition of the Indian Mountaineering Foundation and a Liaison Officer will accompany our team. Climbing permits for the trip will be obtained from central Government (Indian Mountaineering Foundation) and Uttarakhand State Government. Individual members must get special X-Mountaineering Visas and Inner Line Permits. Members must pay for their own X-Visa (currently c£100). Each member must complete a Bio-data form and we submit these to the IMF. When our member applications are by approved the Indian Government Home Ministry, the IMF issues a letter of authorization and members can obtain their X-Mountaineering Visas from the Indian visa office in their country of residence. This is usually done in the month before departure. The final issue of Inner Line permits to the area is made by the District Magistrate on arrival at Joshimath in the local area.
All applications to join this trip must be received no later than 6 months before departure to allow these procedures to be completed.
We would stress that this region of India is far removed from the areas of conflict in Kashmir and is wholly Hindu in religion with some Buddhist influence in the higher valleys. Ethnically and politically it is stable with an effective security control.
In event of encountering any insuperable barrier to entry into the area we will re-route the expedition to an open 7000m peak in the region.

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT REQUIRED  High-altitude boots rated to 7000m + with over-gaiters, a 4/5-season sleeping bag plus Pertex/Goretex cover and expedition standard Mat/Thermarest, expedition standard gloves/mittens and a warm down jacket, plus a large capacity rucksack (65-80 litres) are required. Otherwise the kit normally used for sub-6000m peaks or Alpine/Scottish winter climbing will suffice.  We will send a full kit list.

PRICE HIKES: In event of peak/permit fees or local taxes being significantly increased before our departure we may have to ask members to pay a surcharge on the price. If this exceeds 10% of trip price members may cancel with full refund.

PREPARATIONS AND TRAVEL Insurance cover: all members must have full personal cover which includes medical/rescue/repatriation expenses, third-party liability, personal baggage and protection in event of cancellation /curtailment. The cover must be valid for expedition climbing in excess of 7000m. UK-resident members can take out comprehensive expedition insurance with the BMC www.thebmc.co.uk (2015 premium for up to 31 days c£420 plus BMC membership). Rescue-only insurance is available from www.globalrescue.com  
What inoculations will I need?  We will send a detailed medical brief after you book. All inoculations can be obtained in two visits to your doctor in the 3 months before departure.
How much money need I take to India?  You should take at least $400 in cash to cover Drinks, Tips, Lunches and Personal Sundries plus a credit card for use in Delhi. 
What are our flight schedules?  Daytime outward flight with BA from Heathrow or overnight from Glasgow with Emirates via Dubai. We can arrange connections from regional airports with BA on payment of the relevant supplement. Return flight:  overnight BA flight arriving UK morning 22nd June, or daytime with Emirates arr Glasgow in evening of 22nd.
What is the flight baggage allowance?  BA: 23kg per person plus 10kg hand baggage; Emirates: 30kg plus hand baggage.

LIFE DURING THE EXPEDITION
Accommodation?  Hotels with twin en-suite rooms and room service in Delhi and Haridwar; otherwise simple provincial resthouses
What do I need to carry on the trek?  Members need carry no more than personal effects and clothing (12kg max.) on trek to base camp. Above base camp members must carry their personal kit and make one load-ferry to Camp 2 - typical loads of 15-18kg. Above base camp we will have support from 3 Sherpas and high altitude porters, who will carry to the top camp on Meade’s Col.
What are the provisions for medical treatment on the trip? We carry a comprehensive medical kit on all our trips, and usually have a medical doctor on the team. All Guides have mountain first aid certificates, and long experience of expedition ailments.
What communications equipment will we take? We will carry lightweight Motorola radios for use between camps and a Delmore In-Reach satellite beacon and texting device for weather forecasts and emergency use. Please note that use of satellite phones is currently banned by the Indian authorities.
What is the trek/base camp food like?  Our base camp cook will provide a wholesome diet, eg:-Breakfast: Porage, Muesli, Omelettes, Paranthas, Pancakes
Lunches:  Vegetable or Egg Curry, Dumplings, Puris, Chips, Pakora
Dinners:  Rice/Dahl/Soya Meat Stew, Pizza, Corned Beef Hash, Spaghetti Bolognese, Chow Mein, Apples/Custard, Dried Fruit, Fruit Cake
Snacks and condiments: Dried fruit, nuts, oatcakes, cheese, jam, honey, peanut butter, tinned ham, biscuits, chocolate, fruit-cake
What sort of mountain food will we eat?  We will use an Indian/Sherpa cook to provide basic meals at Camp 2, but members should expect to cook their own meals at other camps on the mountain. Hill food will include Soup, powdered Fruit Drinks, sachets Chocolate/Ovaltine, Tea, Coffee, Porage, Oatcakes, Custard, sweet Biscuits, Cheese, Jam, Honey, Fruit Cake, Flapjack bars, Chocolate, Boiled Sweets, Mint Cake, Freeze-dried Meals, Tuna, Noodles, Cous-Cous, Mashed Potatoes
Who will be the Indian staff on the trip?  We will have a Field Executive from our agent, Himalayan Run & Trek Pvt. Ltd to assist and supervise the expedition, plus a cook, kitchen boy and 3 Sherpas/high altitude porters.
Do I need to take my own tent?  It is suggested that members take their own tent for personal use at base camp. Above base camp we will provide 2 and 3 person mountain tents.

Don’t hesitate to contact us if you would like any further information on the expedition.
We hope you will join us!