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SUMMER 2016: HIMALAYAN EXPEDITION

NUN (7135m)

27th July - 23rd Aug 2016

* The highest mountain in Zanskar Himalaya

* A big route with difficulties on snow and ice and three camps

* Acclimatisation trek and cultural experience in majestic scenery of Ladakh

* The itinerary is based on our successful ascent in September 2013

Nun is one of India's best-known mountains, and is the highest peak in the Zanskar ranges of Kashmir state. In 2013 six of our team members reached the summit by the West Ridge route, a climb of Alpine AD standard with fixed ropes in place on its steepest sections. The approach to the mountain goes via Leh in Ladakh region, which is reached in an hours' flight from Delhi. After acclimatisation in Leh and on the 5250m Kanji La trek the team will move to Nun base camp at 4620m and spend 14 days making the attempt.

Travel and cultural highlights: An expedition to Nun offers a fascinating journey through the border areas of North-West India. Leh city, sited in the upper Indus valley at 3400m, is one of the most vibrant yet relaxing mountain resorts in the world - offering many acclimatisation activities from monastery visits, to river rafting, trekking and mountain biking. The 3-day Kanji La trek gives a taste of high-altitude trekking in the starkly beautiful mountain lands of Ladakh. The approach to Nun takes you into the fertile Suru valley, where Muslim culture replaces the Buddhism that predominates in Ladakh. The return journey to Leh goes via Kargil and a breathtaking 200km drive along the NH1 highway over arid passes and through irrigated valleys. All these areas are open and currently secure for foreign tourists with excellent supervision from the Indian Army and Border Police.

Photo gallery: Peak Nun expedition - September 2013

The Ascent of Nun: The climb begins with a steep icefall between 5000 and 5400m. This leads to a wide snow plateau at 5500m where Camp I is sited. From the plateau the West Ridge of Nun rises in a series of steep steps up to 55 degrees in angle. Fixed ropes protect the hardest bits. Camp 2 lies in the sheltered lee of a snow tower at 6050m, and easier slopes lead to Camp 3 at 6500, From here the summit is reached in a steady climb of 40-45 degrees angle in 7 to 9 hours with some fixed ropes through mixed ground at the very top.

Experience required: Applicants for this trip should be strong and resourceful mountaineers with previous experience on alpine snow and ice climbs above 4000 metres in altitude, and preferably witjh previous high-altitude climbing experience to 6000 metres. All members must be safe competent climbers to Scottish III and Alpine AD standard.

2.5% early booking discount on bookings made before 31st December 2015; past-client discounts up to 5%

2013 expedition team resting at Camp 2 - 6055m

Outline Itinerary:

Wed-Thurs 27th-28th July: Daytime or overnight flight to Delhi; accommodation in Golden Palms Hotel; meet Liaison Officer and obtain clearance of expedition at Indian Mountaineering Foundation; final packing

Fri 29th July: Early morning flight from Delhi to Leh; check in to luxury guesthouse; rest, sightseeing and acclimatisation in and around Leh city

Sat 30th July: Options for members: Sightseeing tour of Leh valley - visits to Thikse and Shey monasteries; hire mountain bicycles for a 60km circuit in the Indus valley, or take river rafting trip on the river Indus

Sun 31st July: Minibus journey to Kanji village (3850m) to begin acclimatisation trek; camp

Mon 1st Aug: Trek to Kanji La advance camp at 4350m (10km, 5hr)

Tues 2nd Aug: Cross Kanji La (5250m) and descend to camp at 4300m in Kanji Nala (14km, 8hr)

Wed 3rd Aug: Walk out down Kanji Nala to Ringdom gompa (12km, 4hr); meet transport and drive down Suru valley under north face of peak Kun to Tangol village at 3420m (4hr)

Thurs 4th Aug: Ascent to Nun base camp (4600m) - 6hr, 1200m

Fri 5th Aug-Thurs 18th Aug: Climbing attempt on West Ridge of Peak Nun (7135m); with camps at 5450m, 6050m and 6500m

Fri-Sat 19th - 20th Aug: Trek out to Tangol; minibus transport to Kargil (3hr); then continue to Leh (6-7hr)

Sun 21st Aug: Fly back to Delhi in morning; check in to hotel; sightseeing and shopping

Mon-Tues 22nd - 23rd Aug: Last day in Delhi; overnight flights back to UK and European destinations

Trip Leader and Guides: The provisional leader is John Lyall a British Mountain Guide (BMG/IFMGA) with long experience of expedition climbing, assisted by a second BMG guide or mountain instructor (MIC) if the team size exceeds 5. Two Sherpas and high altitude porters will assist the team fixing ropes and in ferrying loads to Camp 3.

Booking Deadline: bookings must be received before 31st March 2016 in order for us to obtain permits in India

Supplementary Information:

TRAVEL: Flight schedules For departures from London we use British Airways who run two flights daily direct from Heathrow to Delhi – daytime depart 10.20 and overnight depart 17.25. Members can choose whichever flight suits best, the daytime flight being recommended to minimize jet lag. On return we will book the overnight flight dep Delhi 02.10 arr Heathrow 06.40 on Mon morning or a daytime flight dep Delhi 08.15. Members travelling from UK regions can take BA regional connections on payment of any supplement in cost. For Scottish-based members we may use the Emirates flight from Glasgow via Dubai, on basis of convenience, extra bag allowance and cheaper fares
Flight baggage allowance:  On BA flights: 23kg per person plus 10kg hand baggage. On the Delhi-Leh flight the allowance is 20kg plus small hand bag - surplus kit is taken overland from Delhi to Leh by jeep.

PREPARATIONS: Pre-trip training weekend: We plan to hold a pre-expedition training meet in Scotland in March 2016 when all members can meet together for training and a full briefed in the skills and physical preparation required for this expedition.

Training: All members must endeavour to be in the best possible state of physical training before the trip. Plenty of mountain walking with a pack weight of 12-16kg and daily distances of 16-20km is recommended together with local training running, cycling, gym training or whatever you prefer. Those who have had a lay-off from the mountains must make special efforts to get back to good fitness. Short trips to the Alps will be highly useful if time/finances allow. There is no substitute for getting out on the hills and mountains in UK and Europe in preceding months. There is only limited time to acclimatise and get fit on the expedition. At high altitude any lack in physical preparation is soon exposed!

Insurance: All team members must have Rescue, Medical and Repatriation Insurance cover. In addition, cover for Cancellation/Curtailment, Personal Baggage, 3rd party Liability and Personal Accident is strongly recommended.
UK-resident members can take out comprehensive expedition insurance with the BMC www.thebmc.co.uk (2015 premium for up to 31 days; c.£400 plus BMC membership). Rescue-only insurance is available from www.globalrescue.com
Inoculations: Tetanus, TB (BCG inoculation), Typhoid, Hepatitis A, Diptheria – essential. Rabies, Japanese Encephalitis, Hepatitis B – optional.  Anti-malarials – not recommended. We will detail these fully after you book. Can all be obtained in 3 mths before departure.
Money in India:  You should take $300 in cash to cover Drinks, Tips, Lunches and Personal Sundries plus a credit card for use in Delhi. 

PERMITS AND VISA: We are applying as an official mountaineering party with the Indian Mountaineering Foundation. A Tourist Visa is required for entry to India and this can be obtained by post after on-line application to:  http://in.vfsglobal.co.uk .

EQUIPMENT: Boots must be warm enough to go to 7000m. Scarpa Phantom 6000 fabric boots or La Sportiva Spantik plastic boots are recommended plus an insulated overgaiter such as Berghaus Yetis to provide extra warmth and protection. Light trekking shoes or trainers can be worn for all trekking and lower level exploring. One Axe, Crampons, Helmet and lightweight Harness are required for the climb. A 4 season sleeping bag, and a down jacket, are essential for warmth. Clothing must withstand a big temperature range from -20degC at night to +25degC by day. Take a 60-80 litre Rucksack to carry plus large tough travel holdall for mules/portering.

MAPS: Leomann Trekking Map: 1:200000: sheet 2 Kargil, Zanskar and Nun-Kun area ( simple line map with general information on reverse of sheet).; Olizane topographic maps: 1:150000 scale Ladkh Central and North sheets cover Leh and Kanji La trek; Olizane 1:300000 map of whole of Ladakh-Zanskar covers Nun and has detailed placename information.

Maps can be mail ordered from www.stanfords.co.uk. www.cordee.co.uk

ACCLIMATISATION AND ALTITUDE PROFILE: The schedule allows 2 nights' acclimatisation 3400m in Leh; followed by one night at 3850m and two nights at 4300m on the Kanji La trek. A night at 3420m at Tangol provides recovery before the climb to 4620m at base camp. Three days of acclimatisation to 5500m will then prepare the team to achieve an efficient ascent of the upper mountain. Our tactics will be to get the team fit and strong at altitudes up to 5500m before making the push for the top.

WEATHER AND CLIMBING CONDITIONS: The Nun-Kun massif is not usually severly affected by the monsoon and August is a good time to climb with relative warmth. Night temperatures on the mountain can be very cold - down to minus 20degC or lower above 6000m

LIFE DURING THE EXPEDITION: Accommodation:  Golden Palms Hotel with twin en-suite rooms or YWCA Blue Triangle hostel in Delhi; garden guesthouse in Leh; on trek all nights will be in tents
Load-carrying:  During the trek to base camp members should carry personal effects and clothing, enough to get fit and acclimatized (12-14kg.). On the climbs above base camp members must carry personal kit and some communal kit. Loads of up to 18kg may be required to establish higher camps. Our high-altitude porters, will carry the bulk of communal equipment, food and fuel up to Camp 3.
Provisions for medical treatment: We carry a full field medical kit and advertise for a doctor or paramedic to join the team. All Guides have mountain first aid certificates, and long experience of expedition ailments.
Food: The food on the trip will be largely vegetarian. Our cook will provide a wholesome diet:-
Breakfast:  Porage, Muesli, Omelettes, Pancakes, Paranthas, Chapattis
Dinners: Vegetable or Egg Curry, Puris, Pakora, Rice/Dahl/Soya Stew, Corned Beef Hash, Spaghetti Bolognese, Chow Mein, Apples/Custard, Jelly and Fruit Cake
Lunch Food: Dried fruit, nuts, oatcakes/biscuits/paranthas, cheese, meat pate, salamis, jam, honey, peanut butter, chocolate, protein bars, boiled sweets
Drinks: Soup, Fruit Drinks, Drinking Chocolate/Ovaltine, Tea, Coffee, Herbal Tea.
Indian staff:  We will have a Cook/Field Executive from our agent, Himalayan Run & Trek Pvt. Ltd and two or three Sherpas/high altitude porters. All the staff are regulars on our trips and have achieved a very high reputation for service, support and team spirit.
Tents: We will provide tents for the mountain camps and can provide tents for base camp on basis of two or three persons sharing. However, we recommend that you take your own lightweight personal tent for use at base camp and on trek, giving you privacy and space for rest and recovery when not climbing.

Please get in touch if you have any questions or would like more information about the trip.

Moran Mountain Ltd - Park Cottage - Achintee - Strathcarron - Ross-shire - IV54 8YX