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AUTUMN 2013: HIMALAYAN EXPEDITION

SATOPANTH (7075m)

11th Sept - 8th Oct 2013

* One of India's iconic 7000m peaks

* A challenging route for experienced Alpine and Himalayan climbers

* Trekking and exploration in the magnificent Gangotri national park

Satopanth is a majestic chisel-headed 7000er rising imperiously above a cluster of surrounding summits between the Gangotri and Chaturangi Glaciers in the India's Garhwal Himalaya. First climbed in 1947 by Andre Roch's Swiss expedition, the peak has been repeated on numerous occasions by its north flank and ridge. The climb is mainly on snow and ice, with a narrow section of corniced ridge and a long final climb up the north flank headwall, rating AD on the Alpine scale of difficulty. Moran Mountain has unfinished business on Satopanth. Our last expedition here in 2010 was beaten back from 6000m by a major late-monsoon storm. By going two weeks later in 2013 we aim to hit the peak period of post-monsoon weather and conditions.

As well as providing a fine climb Satopanth lies in the centre of the magnificent mountain ranges of the Gangotri Glacier, which includes the peaks of Shivling, Meru and Bhagirathi. Our itinerary offers several days of trekking, exploring and acclimatisation amongst these fabulous mountains. Gangotri is worshipped by Hindus as the source of the River Ganges and each year thousands of pilgrims visit its temple and the river source at Gaumukh.

Satopanth from the Chaturangi Glacier The ascent route gains the left hand snow ridge at the obvious notch. The narrow corniced section leads to a camp-site below the 900m headwall

Experience Required: We are looking for strong determined climbers with proven altitude experience. Previous trips to the Greater Ranges at heights above 5000m, preferably 6000m, are recommended. Experienced Alpine climbers may also apply. All members must be safe competent climbers to Scottish III and Alpine AD standard. Trip Leader and Guides: The trip will be led by a qualified British Mountain Guide (BMG/IFMGA) with assistance from a second BMG guide or mountain instructor (MIC) if the team size exceeds 4. All our Guides have substantial high altitude and expedition experience. Two or three high altitude porters will assist the team n ferrying loads to Camp 2. Booking Deadline: bookings must be received before 11th May 2013 in order for us to obtain permits in India

Outline Itinerary:

Wed-Thurs Sept 11-12: Fly to Delhi; overnight resthouse accommodation; meet Liaison Officer and obtain clearance of expedition at Indian Mountaineering Foundation; final packing

Fri Sept 13: Early morning train to Haridwar (Gateway of the Gods) on the River Ganges (5hr) ; meet trip bus and continue to Uttarkashi (provincial town and admin centre) (7hr)

Sat Sept 14: Final clearances from local officials; then continue bus journey up Bhagirathi valley to Harsil (2550m) (5hr) (resthouse)

Sun Sept 15: Acclimatisation walk then jeep drive to Gangotri village and temple (3030m) (2hr)

Mon Sept 16: Training walk up Kedar Ganga valley to view the spectacular peak of 6904m Thalay Sagar, return to Gangotri for second night at 3000m

Tues-Thurs Sept 17-19: Trek to base camp at Vasuki Tal (4930m) on Chaturangi Glacier: overnight stops at Bhujbasa (3792m) and Nandanban (4400m)

Fri-Sun Sept 20-22: Acclimatisation walks up Chaturangi Glacier towards Kalindi Khal (5947m) (a high pass to Badrinath); load ferries to establish Camp 1 at 5400m

Mon Sept 23-Thurs Oct 3: Attempt on Satopanth with intermediate camps at c.5400m, 5950m, 6250m. Alpine-style tactics will be used with exception of one section of fixed rope on the crux snow/ice ridge

Fri-Sat Oct 4-5: Outward trek to Gangotri and return road journey to Uttarkashi

Sun-Mon Oct 6-7: Bus journey to Haridwar, evening train to Delhi; final formalities at IMF

Tues Oct 8: Overnight flights back to UK.

2.5% early booking discount on bookings made before Feb 28th 2013

Supplementary Information:

TRAVEL: Flight schedules:  BA run two flights daily from Heathrow to Delhi – daytime depart 10.10 and overnight depart 17.25. Members can choose whichever flight suits best, the daytime flight being recommended to minimize jet lag. On return we usualluy book the overnight flight dep Delhi 02.10 arr Heathrow 06.50 on Tues morning.
Flight baggage allowance:  23kg per person plus 10kg hand baggage. An extra bag can be booked on the flight at cost of £35-40 each way

PREPARATIONS: Pre-trip training weekend: We plan to hold a pre-expedition training meet in Scotland in March 2013 when all members can meet together for training and a full briefed in the skills and physical preparation required for this expedition.

Training: All members must endeavour to be in the best possible state of physical training before the trip. Plenty of mountain walking with daily distances of 16-20km is recommended together with local training running, cycling, gym training or whatever you prefer. Those who have had a lay-off from the mountains must make special efforts to get back to good fitness. Short trips to the Alps will be highly useful if time/finances allow. There is no substitute for getting out on the hills and mountains in UK and Europe in preceding months. There is only limited time to acclimatise and get fit on the expedition. At high altitude any lack in physical preparation is soon exposed!

Insurance: All team members must have Rescue, Medical and Repatriation Insurance cover. In addition, cover for Cancellation/Curtailment, Personal Baggage, 3rd party Liability and Personal Accident is strongly recommended.
UK-resident members can take out comprehensive expedition insurance with the BMC www.thebmc.co.uk (2012 premium for up to 31 days £300 plus BMC membership).
Inoculations: Tetanus, TB (BCG inoculation), Typhoid, Hepatitis A, Diptheria – essential. Rabies, Japanese Encephalitis, Hepatitis B – optional.  Anti-malarials – not recommended. We will detail these fully after you book. Can all be obtained in 3 mths before departure.
Money in India:  You should take $300 in cash to cover Drinks, Tips, Lunches and Personal Sundries plus a credit card for use in Delhi. 

PERMITS AND VISA: We are applying as an official mountaineering party with the Indian Mountaineering Foundation. A Tourist Visa is required for entry to India and this can be obtained by post after on-line application to:  http://in.vfsglobal.co.uk .

EQUIPMENT: Boots must be warm enough to go to 7000m. Scarpa Phantom 6000 fabric boots or La Sportiva Spantik plastic boots are recommended plus an insulated overgaiter such as Berghaus Yetis to provide extra warmth and protection. Light trekking shoes or trainers can be worn for all trekking and lower level exploring. Two Axes, Crampons, Helmet and lightweight Harness are required for the climb. A 4/5 season sleeping bag, and a down jacket, are essential for warmth. Clothing must withstand a big temperature range from -20degC at night to +25degC by day. Take a 60-70 litre Rucksack to carry plus large tough travel holdall for mules/portering.

MAPS: Leomann Trekking Map: 1:200000: sheets 7 Gangotri, Har-ki-Dun, Mussoorie and 8 Kumaon: line maps with lots of general information on reverse of sheet. Maps can be mail ordered from www.stanfords.co.uk. www.cordee.co.uk

ACCLIMATISATION AND ALTITUDE PROFILE: The schedule allows 3 nights acclimatisation at 2500-3000m at Harsil and Gangotri; followed by a steady increase in altitude over 3 days to 4900m at Vasuki Tal base camp. Three days of acclimatisation to 5500m will then prepare the team to achieve an efficient ascent of Satopanth. Our tactics will be to get the team fit and strong at altitudes up to 6000m before making the push for the top.

WEATHER AND CLIMBING CONDITIONS: The first few days of the trip may have monsoon-like weather with rain and fresh snow on the peaks. By mid-September the monsoon has receded south and a fine spell of settled weather usually sets in for two or three weeks.  Weather patterns are not predictable – the duration and intensity of the monsoon varies greatly. However, we are climbing this peak on one of the optimal period of the year with 80% chance of a decent weather spell when we need it.

LIFE DURING THE EXPEDITION: Accommodation:  YWCA Blue Triangle hostel with twin en-suite rooms in Delhi – a comfortable quiet lodge very close to the city centre with en-suite twin rooms; hotels and resthouses in Uttarkashi and Gangotri; on trek all nights will be in tents
Load-carrying:  During the trek to base camp members should carry personal effects and clothing, enough to get fit and acclimatized (12-14kg.). On the climbs above base camp members must carry personal kit and some communal kit. Loads of 18kg may be required to establish higher camps. Our high-altitude porters, will carry the bulk of communal equipment, food and fuel up to Camp 2.
Provisions for medical treatment: We carry a field medical kit and advertise for a doctor or paramedic to join the team. All Guides have mountain first aid certificates, and long experience of expedition ailments.
Food: The food on the trip will be largely vegetarian. Our cook will provide a wholesome diet:-
Breakfast:  Porage, Muesli, Omelettes, Pancakes, Paranthas, Chapattis
Dinners: Vegetable or Egg Curry, Puris, Pakora, Rice/Dahl/Soya Stew, Corned Beef Hash, Spaghetti Bolognese, Chow Mein, Apples/Custard, Jelly and Fruit Cake
Lunch Food: Dried fruit, nuts, oatcakes/biscuits/paranthas, cheese, meat pate, salamis, jam, honey, peanut butter, chocolate, protein bars, boiled sweets
Drinks: Soup, Fruit Drinks, Drinking Chocolate/Ovaltine, Tea, Coffee, Herbal Tea.
Indian staff:  We will have a Cook/Field Executive from our agent, Himalayan Run & Trek Pvt. Ltd and two or three high altitude porters. All the staff are regulars on our trips and have achieved a very high reputation for service, support and team spirit.
Tents: We will provide tents for the mountain camps and can provide tents for base camp on basis of two or three persons sharing. However, we recommend that you take your own lightweight personal tent for use at base camp and on trek, giving you privacy and space for rest and recovery when not climbing.

Please get in touch if you have any questions or would like more information about the trip.

Moran Mountain Ltd - Park Cottage - Achintee - Strathcarron - Ross-shire - IV54 8YX