2004 HIMALAYAN EXPEDITIONS

"Little Kailash Climber"

17th Sept - 17th Oct

Until our 2002 expedition no climbers had explored the 400 sq.km range of Little (or Adi) Kailash (6191m) which lies in India's Eastern Kumaon region close to the Tibetan border. There are some six unclimbed 20,000 foot peaks and a wealth of climbing opportunities on lower summits of all standards. Using the knowledge and experience gained from our previous trip we are returning to attempt the highest peak of the range Peak 6321m, Little Kailash itself and other objectives in the range. The area is one of lonely and majestic beauty with superb trekking and opportunity for exploration of new glaciers and valley.

Kholi or Pk 6196 from north

 

Nanda Gond and Pk 6160 from Ikualari

Applicants for this expedition should have previous mountaineering experience on snow and ice, preferably at altitudes in excess of 4000 metres. The ascents of Peak 6321m and Little Kailash will require competence to Scottish grade III and/or Alpine AD in standard, but those with less experience can enjoy other objectives in the area. Good fitness for trekking and load-carrying is essential.

The climbs will be led by British Guides working to a maximum 3:1 climbing ratio.

Outline itinerary:

Fri/Sat Sept 17th-18th: British members fly to Delhi; final packing and administrative formalities

Sun Sept 19th: Night train to Kathgodam; transfer to bus and travel through Kumaon foothills to the hill-station of Chaukori (2000m) (superb view of Himalaya)

Mon Sept 20th: Bus journey to final town of Darchula; obtain Restricted Area Permits; final shopping; stay at resthouse

Tues Sept 21st: Jeeps to roadhead at Mangti Nala in Kali Ganga valley and trek to Lmari (1800m); 15km

Wed Sept 22nd: Trek Lmari to Gunji; 18km; beautiful forest and gorge scenery

Thurs Sept 23rd: Trek up Kuthi Yankti valley from Gunji to Kuthi village (3800m); 18km 800m ascent

Fri Sept 24th: Trek from Kuthi to base camp 2km before Jolingkong at 4350m

Sat Sept 25th-Sun Sept 26th: Acclimatisation, exploration of Jolingkong lake and temple and reconnoitre of peaks and passes in Little Kailash range; meet with ITBP Border police at Jolingkong to agree routes.

Mon Sept 27th Thurs Sept 30th: Training ascents : there are many options:-

- Rajula (5950m) climbed by our expedition in 2002

- Jolingkong peak to the north of Jolingkong lake : the easy Jolingkong III (5300m) was climbed by our team in 2002 Jolingkong I and II (c.5600m) look more formidable

- Trident I, II and III lie immediately W of Jolingkong; Trident III (c.5400m) was climbed by our 2002 team at AD standard; Trdient I and II are slightly higher and would be technically interesting

- Pandav Parbat (5850m) this five-topped peak is unclimbed, looks formidable but is easily accessed from base camp

Fri Oct 1st: Recovery at base camp; decision on objectives for next week

Sat Oct 2nd Sun Oct 10th: Attempt on Little Kailash (6191m) and its higher parent peak (Peak 6321m) from SE steep snow face (possible fixed ropes) to col between the peaks, ascents from there to summit(s).

Alternative objectives:

- attractive unclimbed peak of c.6000m N of Rajula - a beautiful rocky pyramid (a bit like the Aiguille du Chardonnet above Argentière)

- Pandav Parbat see above

- Trek back to Kuthi and establish an advance base 4km up the valley towards Nama Pass then attempt the unclimbed snow peaks to the south of the pass (Peak 6197m)- heavily glaciated, pure snow/ice ascent likely at PD/AD standard; lots of other lower peaks accessible.

Mon Oct 11th: Clear base camp and trek out to Kuthi village

Tues-Thurs Oct 12th-14th: Optional glacier trek over Nama Pass (5250m) to Sela in Darma valley, then trek out to roadhead at Sobale; jeep to Darchula.

Alternatively: trek back out to Mangti Nala via Gunji and Lmari, jeep to Darchula

Fri Oct 15th: Bus journey to Kathgodam; night train to Delhi

Sat Oct 16th: Stop-over accommodation at Delhi YMCA; final administration, shopping, farewell celebration meal

Sun Oct 17th: Night Flight back to Britain

Full trip dossier with map and photos available on enquiry

Duration : 30 days Minimum number of members required: 6

PRICE: £3,400 incl. flights, insurance, guiding, all accommodation and ground services in India, peak fees and Inner Line permits.

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"Peaks of the Unta Dhura"

Adventure Trekking and Exploratory Mountaineering on the Indo-Tibetan border

SEPT 8th - OCT 4th 2004

Following our successful trip to Little Kailash in 2002 we are returning to the border regions of the Indian Himalaya in 2004. Thanks to recent relaxation of entry restrictions we may be the first Western team to attempt the northern circuit of the Nanda Devi range since the Border zone was closed to foreigners in 1962. We plan to trek up the eastern flank of the range via the majestic Milam valley and then cross the historic trading pass of the Unta Dhura (5377m). We will then spend a week climbing in the ranges west of the pass where there are unclimbed peaks up to 6196m in altitude. Finally we will leave the Tibetan frontier zone to complete our trek down the wild Girthi Ganga valley, described by W.H.Murray who crossed the route in 1950 as"the most wonderful journey we had ever had".

The trip is strongly recommended to all adventurers and mountaineers with prior experience on snow and ice and trekking or climbing to altitudes in excess of 4000m.

Outline itinerary:
Sept 8th-9th: Fly to Delhi, stay in 4* hotel and complete admin. and packing.
Sept 10th-11th: Overnight train to Kathgodam and bus journey to Munsiari in the Kumaon foothills
Sept 12th-15th: Trek up spectacular Gori Ganga gorge to Milam (3423m); with diversion towards Nanda Devi East base camp.
Sept 16th-19th: Crossing of Unta Dhura pass to camp at Topidunga (4500m).
Sept 20th-27th: Exploration and ascents in Nanda Gond and Chalab group with main objective to ascend unclimbed Peak 6196m.
Sept 28th-Oct 1st: Trek down the precipitous Girthi Ganga valley to roadhead at Malari.
Oct 2nd-3rd: Return to Delhi via Joshimath and Rishikesh
Oct 4th: Flights home to UK.

Full trip dossier with map available on enquiry

Maximum of 10 places with 2 British Guides/Leaders

PRICE: £2,950 inclusive of Flights, Insurance, Permits and Peak Royalties, Leadership of British Mountain Guide, Travel and all Ground Services in India.

Deposit required: £400

 

Martin Moran Mountaineering
Park Cottage - Achintee - Strathcarron - Ross-shire - IV54 8YX
Tel/Fax 01520 722361    E-mail