Chamonix Ice Courses

CHAMONIX ICE COURSES - WINTER 2004

Introduction

In January we are running three weeks of exciting ice climbing courses, based in the Chamonix valley below Mont Blanc. These are being directed by British Mountain Guide, Jon Morgan, who works regularly on our Alpine Courses in the summer Every winter the valley produces many spectacular icefalls at all technical levels. Many are easily accessible from the car. The lift systems can be used to get to the higher icefalls. There are regular coach and taxi services between Chamonix and Geneva Airport.

The price of the course includes:
§ Guiding Fees for the 5 days climbing Monday to Friday inclusive; arrival Sunday pm, departure Sat am
§ Use of ropes & transceivers
§ 6 days half board in an excellent hotel in the Chamonix Valley. There is a good bar in the hotel and the half board includes afternoon tea and cakes when you get back after climbing. Monday is the chef's night off and Friday is free too as most people prefer to go to a local restaurant on their last night.
§ Local transport during the holiday.
§ One day ice climbing in Italy or the Val de Bagnes of Switzerland

The price does not include travel to Chamonix, lunches, lift tickets or hire of technical gear.
The technical gear can be hired in Chamonix .This can easily sorted out on your arrival as the gear shops are all open till 7pm.
If the conditions dictate, we may have to move to another area (most likely the Val di Cogne in the Gran Paradiso range), and you will have to pay for any extra accommodation costs if this occurs. You will be returned to Chamonix at the end of the holiday.

Introductory Ice Climbing 5 climbing days (2:1 ratio)

Pre-requirements: If you are a beginner in technical ice climbing this is the ideal course. You should, however, have previous experience in rock climbing and/or winter mountaineering and be in a good state of fitness. Arm, wrist and calf-muscle strength are particularly important. All forms of aerobic activity eg long brisk walks, running, cycling in preparation will make the course seem less strenuous and more enjoyable. This is more useful than working out in the gym.
Course content: The average technical standard of climbs will be equivalent to Scottish grade III to IV. Continental ice grades are more exacting than in Scotland - for example the ice grade WI 3 would equate to Scottish IV. Climbing multi-pitch routes will be the priority during your stay but you would get full instruction in:-
- the personal arts of ice climbing
- use of modern equipment
- rope work, protection placement and belaying techniques.

4th to 10th Jan 2004; 11th to 17th Jan 2004; 18th to 24th Jan 2004

Price: £ 830 half board

Technical Ice Climbing 5 climbing days (2:1 ratio)

Pre-requirements: If you have had some experience of Scottish winter climbing at grade III level or above or Alpine icefall climbing, this course would allow you to expand your horizons and technical skills. Routes of Continental standard WI 3 and 4 would be attempted, with the occasional short WI 5 climb. These equate to Scottish grades IV and V with occasional VI. Steep continental ice requires good strength and stamina in both arms and calf-muscles, with a steady temperament to handle sustained terrain of 70 degree angle and above. Aerobic fitness will increase your enjoyment of the week.
Course content: On some days we would be attempting long, middle grade WI 3 and 4 routes and on others shorter, more technical climbs. Full instruction in modern ice techniques will be given to help you save energy and tackle crux sections with confidence. We encourage students to develop their leading skills whenever ice conditions are suitable, first using pre-placed ice screws, then placing your own protection with the knowledge that there is a safety rope above you if it is required!

4th to 10th Jan 2004; 11th to 17th Jan 2004; 18th to 24th Jan 2004

Price: £ 870 half-board

 

Martin Moran Mountaineering
Park Cottage - Achintee - Strathcarron - Ross-shire - IV54 8YX
Tel/Fax 01520 722361    E-mail