EXPEDITION REPORTS

Full details of next year's planned adventures appear on our Himalayan Expeditions pages.

NILKANTH SUCCESS

Blessed by settled weather our pioneering expedition to 6596m Nilkanth and the Panpatia peaks recorded some great successes.

NILKANTH CLIMB: Our main objective, the previously unclimbed West Ridge of Nilkanth, was ascended on June 1st by John Leedale and Casper Venter with guides Martin Moran, Andy Nisbet and Jonathan Preston. A third client, Eddie Gillespie, was forced to withdraw from the summit bid at 5800m due to a throat infection.

The route was sustained and demanding throughout; from base camp at 4075m a steep climb up the side of a hanging glacier courted some risk from ice falls but reached a broad plateau where Camp 1 was sited at 5200m. A snow couloir then led to the start of the West Ridge at 5550m. 200m of rope was fixed up the steep initial rock buttress of grade III and IV standard, then round a pinnacle to an airy bivouac on a rock shoulder. Two nights were spent here before the crucial summit attempt.

On May 31st the team of 5 left at 5am and climbed 16 pitches on snow, ice and mixed ground of Scottish grade II and III standard to gain the shoulder below the upper West Ridge at 6150m. A wonderful little camp and bivouac site was discovered in a wind hollow under the ridge. The weather held fine overnight and the team left before 6am on the 1st climbing the steep icy ridge over great cornice meringues to the summit crest. The highest point was at the far end of the crest but the arete was simply too narrow to follow. So the team traversed under the arete and made a diagonal traverse across a 55 degree snow/ice face to gain the crowning cornice at 12.30pm. A torrid descent in extreme afternoon heat sapped the last reserves of energy and after a cold restless night the team continued the descent of the ridge by a series of abseils. Camp 1 was regained at nightfall on the 2nd and a joyful return to base camp made early the next morning. Fittingly the weather then broke and a week of monsoon weather commenced!

The guided ascent of a technical new route on a difficult Himalayan peak is possibly a unique achievement, and reflects good planning, luck with the weather and tremendous determination on the part of the clients. Nilkanth has been attempted by dozens of parties over the last 50 years but only two had recorded success before our expedition. Martin Moran was able to film the whole route on digital video camera to provide a lasting record of a memorable climb.

PANPATIA PEAKS AND PASS: 10 out of the 13 clients had only 3 weeks in India and concentrated their efforts in unlocking the secrets of the unexplored Panpatia range, also known as Vishnu's Fortress. Initial forays found the glacier terrain to be badly crevassed putting several attractive summits out of reach. However, two feasible objectives were identified, Peaks 5477m and 5919m.

All members used Peak 5477m as a training climb, and Martin Moran, Eddie Gillespie, John Leedale and John Venier reached the South of the twin summits after a 300m climb of Scottish grade II or Alpine AD standard; they were dismayed to find that the North top was 5 or 10m higher and lack of time prevented a traverse. Nevertheless, they descended safely, well-pleased with the magnificent summit views of Nilkanth and the Nanda Devi range. The name Ravindra's Peak is proposed, after our Indian agent's new baby son.

Peak 5919m was the next objective and some excellent routefinding by guides Chris Dale and Jonathan Preston found a practicable snow route to the summit. Clients Steve Brown, Denise Forster, Paul Josse and Simon Needham summited on May 24th; Harold Edwards followed a day later with Robin Bennie and 21 year old James MacKenzie. As Vishnu's wife in Hindu legend, Lakshmi seemed a suitable name for one of the most beautiful peaks in his fortress.

In the last week all efforts were focused on crossing the col at the head of the Panpatia Glacier. Harold and Chris marshalled the forces of the 9 clients, cut the pack weights down to 18kg per person and led the assault on the steep icefall guarding the upper glacier. Thanks to a good cover of winter snow a way was found and the 5200m col crossed on May 28th. A delightful route was found down past Maingadalla lake to Madhyamaneshwar temple at 3450m. With the party in good form and scenting cold beers in Delhi the 35km trek out to Kalimath was covered in two days. During the whole trek no other Westerners were seen and only a handful of Indian trekkers. A black bear was spotted near the temple and the forests were in pristine condition. Though we can't be absolutely sure, this is probably the first time that this col has been crossed; certainly it is the first recorded crossing of modern times.

As well as the heroic deeds up on the mountains the expedition was also special for other qualities - while the others were out climbing, client John Harvey was forced to remain in base camp for 10 days, having sustained arm injuries in a snow glissade that went out of control. He did so without rancour or complaint, helped manage and sanitise the camp and organised the final departure of porters and loads.

The success of a Himalayan trip depends on attitude as much as achievement, and for all of us it was a special experience just to spend a couple of weeks in peaceful untouched mountain terrain of the highest quality.

 

BANDERPUNCH SUCCESS

Our expedition in Autumn 1999 aimed for peak Kalanag 6387m, highest of the Banderpunch massif in the Western Garhwal of the Indian Himalayas. The team comprised 10 clients, 2 Guides (Martin Moran and John Allott), Indian Liaison Officer 'Bobby' Malia, High Altitude Porters Naveen Chandra and Heera Singh, and Cook Saroj Sherpa. We travelled to Delhi on September 16th/17th and spent two days getting to the roadhead. Express train train took us to Dehra Dun on the edge of the foothills from where our team bus whisked us up to hill station and resort of Mussoorie. Our night's stay here was rather spoilt by thick fog and heavy rain, which gradually died out on the 19th as we drove 160km up the Yamuna valley and then over a 2000m pass into the Tons valley. The route was very quiet and the forested scenery increasingly lovely.

From the roadhead at Sankri (1900m) the team spent 3 days trekking through pristine forest to base camp at Kiarkoti meadow (4050m) near the snout of the Banderpunch Glacier. The 45km route passed through several villages of medieval architecture and atmosphere with carved-wood balustrades and slate roofs on the houses. Base camp was established in wet miserable weather on September 23rd, but by the 25th the skies had cleared completely to begin a 6 day spell of perfect weather.

The decision was made to push ahead with the climb while the conditions were good. A Camp 1 was established at 4850m and occupied on September 26th by the advance party of MM, Robert Hinton, James Impey, Paul Newby, Tom Rankin and Des Winterbone. Early on the 27th this team crossed the Kalanag Glacier and ferried loads up to a site for Camp 2 at 5450m. Camp 2 was occupied on the 28th and at 1.30am on the 29th this group of six set out for the first summit attempt. The route followed a broad shoulder through crevassed areas and small serac bands to meet the summit ridge at 6000m. A steepening climb led to a final cornice and narrow arete tapering to the highest point. The top was gained at 8.40am and a 3 hour descent made back to camp.

With a safe and sure route established the remainder of the team moved up to Camp 2 on September 30th. The weather broke that afternoon and laid down several inches of fresh snow which obscured all existing tracks. Neverthless, 8 climbers set out at 2am on the 1st in partially-clouded conditions and air temperatures of minus 8 celsius. By sharing trail-breakng all 8 witnessed a beautiful ethereal dawn and finally made the top at 10am - MM, John Allott, Bill Landells, Keith Rogers, Bill Landells, Bobby Malia, Naveen Chandra and Heera Singh. Well-exhausted, the party regained Camp 2 at 1.15pm and the mountain was completely cleared on the 2nd.

After two days rest and reorganisation all members set out on the 5th to cross the 4800m Bali Pass from Ruinsara to Yamunotri, a famous temple with the attraction of hot spring baths. Unfortunately, when camped at 3900m under the pass a heavy overnight storm laid down 6 inches of fresh snow. In trekking boots the pass could not be safely crossed, and a retreat was made to Seema resthouse in the Tons valley. On the 7th the whole party trekked back to Sankri.

A second visit to Mussoorie was made on the 8th and this time the weather was beautiful, so that sunset and dawn views of the Banderpunch and Gangotri snow peaks could be enjoyed from a distance of 80km. After indulgence in the delights of 8.75% proof Meakins beer, a jaded party travelled back to Delhi on the 9th for last minute shopping, a celebration meal and a well-earned rest on the plane home. This was a happy as well as successful expedition, marked by good teamwork and a harmonious social atmosphere. Special congratulations must be awarded to Keith Rogers on making his first Himalayan summit at the age of 62 years, and our thanks should be recorded to team doctor, Bill Landells, for his care and attention to all minor tummy-bugs and altitude problems encountered during the trip.

Apart from the summit satisfaction there were many memorable moments through the trip which we shared - the lone Marsh Sandpiper sitting on Ruinsara Lake en-route from the wastes of central Asia to wintering grounds in southern India, the enormous Griffon Vulture rising imperiously from the crags just 10 metres above us, the eyeball-to-gun barrel encounter with local hunters out to poach wild bharal sheep, Heera's fire at the Bali Pass cave, Saroj producing pan after panload of steaming mau-mau dumplings, Paul's poems, Keith's Black Country jokes and Desmond's multi-coloured duvet jacket.

A full report on the trip is available from us on and gives a good insight to beginners into Himalayan expeditioning.

 

Martin Moran Mountaineering
Park Cottage - Achintee - Strathcarron - Ross-shire - IV54 8YX
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