HIMALAYAN EXPEDITIONS

SHIVLING (6543M)

The Matterhorn of India

DATES: 18 SEPTEMBER - 13 OCTOBER 2003

Shivling - click on photo for large image

Shivling is one of the world's most beautiful and famous peaks, the towering sentinel to the Gangotri Glacier and the holy source of the River Ganges, which is visited by thousands of Hindu pilgrims every year. The standard route up the mountain's West Ridge demands skills in steep snow and ice climbing to Alpine AD/D and Scottish grade III/IV standard. The route also has one serious section of 200 metres where it climbs through the central serac wall. First ascended in 1977 Shivling now sees several successful ascents each year. Tapovan base camp with grassy flats, its naked resident Holy Man and scattering of expedition tents is one of the most prized and convivial sites in the Himalayas. Though one of the busiest spots in the Garhwal Himalaya the Gangotri Glacier retains a penetrating mystique and icy beauty. Applicants should have Scottish winter and relevant Alpine climbing experience. With a sound technical and Alpine backgorund this could be attempted as your first Himalayan trip. Acclimatisation demands are however considerable as both trek and climb are steep. The trip is offered on a 25 day schedule with maximum 3:1 guiding ratio.

Outline Itinerary:
Sept 18-21 Fly to Delhi and journey by rail/bus to Gangotri (3010m) - temple, religious and tourist centre
Sept 22-24 Gentle acclimatisation and 28km trek up the Bhagirathi valley to Tapovan Base Camp via Chirbas, Bhujbasa and Gaumukh (the Ganges source at the snout of the Gangotri Glacier)
Sept 25-30 Acclimatisation and preparation of camps on lower West Ridge to 5750m
Oct 1-8 Establishment of route up serac wall (fixed rope) and summit attempts from a top camp at c.5750m
Oct 9-13 Trek out to Gangotri, return to Delhi and UK

Group size: maximum of 9 with 3 Guides Price: £3,300

Full dossier on request

Martin Moran Mountaineering
Park Cottage - Achintee - Strathcarron - Ross-shire - IV54 8YX
Tel/Fax 01520 722361    E-mail